continued from Georgia : Tbilisi
Beyond Tbilisi, we stayed in the Kakheti region, and went on day trips to Uplistsikhe, Mtskheta, and Gori, and another to Kazbegi and Ananuri, going right up to Stepantsminda, which is less than a dozen kilometres from the Russian border.
Georgia is quite blessed by nature and its natural beauty and greenery is fantastic. This was on our way to Kakheti.
Georgia has plenty of monasteries because this was one of the first countries to which Christianity spread. It was also the third country to become officially Christian. This is the older version of the Shuamta Monastery – Dzveli. Our driver-guide talked through the long drive on Georgia’s connection with Biblical mentions, and in general, the history, people, and culture of Georgia.
Nearby is the Akhali Shuamta, made in the 16th century. These are extremely serene places, and even when crowded, folks are very aware of where they are, and do their best not to disturb others. You can also walk around the monastery grounds, some of which include forests.
The Batonis Tsikhe, and Telavi’s version of the city walls. Telavi was also a quiet place, though I suspect people were waiting for the evening to start the celebrations, a version of the one that was happening in Tbilisi.
The grounds of the Batonis Tsikhe were also pleasant and devoid of visitors. So.much.peace. There was also a music college right outside.
The best part was the fantastic view of the Kakheti region. So clearly visible.
King Erekle II is quite a hero to the local populace, for uniting Georgia and trying to modernise it. To the extent our driver-guide named his son after him!
The Giant Plane Tree in Telavi. Delivers exactly what it says. There is also a ‘family of snails’ installation near it, a metaphorical reference to time probably.
Lunch in Telavi was at Kapiloni, and if you sit under those umbrellas, you get a good view.
We had wine…
… a delicious, flavourful Veal Chanakhi with local bread…
… and Khashlama – superbly boiled beef
Street art in Telavi as we wandered around
Theotokos Church isn’t what we came to see, but hey…
…it was very near to the old balconies
The Telavi market. Unless you like produce, nothing to see here 🙂
Tsinandali Estate. D toured while I napped in the car!
It was grapes season, so our guide even got us to pluck some randomly from someone’s garden! We could see trucks carrying loads to be made into wine.
Kabadoni Boutique Hotel is where we stayed in Sighnaghi. They ‘missed’ telling us that the air conditioning was set to winter mode and so we ended up spending a warm night here! The breakfast and the coffee was good though.
The World War II Memorial was right next door. Georgia lost practically half its population in the war.
Sighnaghi has views to die for, and the hotel terrace was a perfect vantage point.
The City Walls are a popular attraction. Some walking to do though.
But if you do walk, you get some beautiful sights.
No, we didn’t walk the entire 5 kilometres!
Time for the sun and us to get down.
Dinner was pretty boring though we finally tried the Beef Ostri. I suspect it was a poor version.
We walked around at around 8 and it was reasonably desolate. Sighnaghi is quite the village with just enough restaurant options. Since department stores sell all kinds of addiction – fast food, cigarettes, alcohol – that was where kids seemed to hang out most!
Off the next morning, after one last look. From a fantastic vantage point on the way to Bodbe.
Bodbe Monastery of Saint Nino. Started to get crowded even (relatively) early in the morning.
One way to look at it…
…and the other
The entire place is quite serene. The nuns maintain some very pretty gardens, grow their own vegetables, and even sell some of it.
The Wedding Palace that we saw while getting back into Tbilisi. From above, its plan has both erm, males and females, well represented. Like some churches that do it more subtly.
Uplistsikhe, the city of caves.
The view was lovely.
Classism was around even then – larger caves for richer folks, more rooms, proximity to pharmacy, located higher etc.
There were even capsules dug into the ground as prison cells. You could just about stand, no space to sit/lie down, and guards peeing down on you!
Georgians take pride in the fact that they were the first in wine making – 6000 BCE! We had a wine tasting session within the caves. The one on the right is Khvanchkara, apparently Stalin’s favourite. Mildly sweet, and ugh.
Speaking of Stalin, we visited his hometown Gori (how apt), and the museum dedicated to him there.
He tried his best to do a bunch of things in photos and paintings. For one, keep his short height a ‘secret’, by standing only when others are seated/shorter than him, or remaining seated when taller folks are standing. He also had the remnants of a skin disease (that had killed his brother) on one side of his face, but he forbade photos of that. The museum also houses the one photo that does show it.
He dreaded flying, and went everywhere by train. This is his favourite coach. Has everything that a home-office needs.
Including a loo. A good time to bring up that a lot of Georgia’s revenue, I think, comes from charging to use the loo. This time we paid to see the loo.
The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta. This place was the original capital of Georgia.
A different kind of cross.
Churchkela, which Georgians usually make in autumn when the primary ingredients, grapes and nuts, are harvested. Made with that and flour. Lasts long, is filling, and easy to carry. Made first for soldiers, apparently.
Jvari Monastery, one of the oldest churches around.
Straight out of LOTR.
The Zhinvali Water Reservoir view point. The colour of that water!
Climb a bit at the Ananuri Fortress Complex…
…and you get a great view.
You could also walk to the bridge nearby.
If you look closely, you can see the White Aragvi and Black Aragvi rivers trying to mix.
The Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument.
But really, it’s the views here that is the thing to see.
360 degrees of astounding panorama.
The Gergeti Trinity Church in Stepantsminda is quite the climb.
But you do get to see Mount Kazbegi in all its splendour.
If you like nature, the feel of Old Towns in Europe, are experimental with food, and especially if you’re fond of wine, Georgia needs to be on your list. It has a bit of everything, is easily accessible and there are enough day tours for you to get a good feel of the place.
And when you’re ready to plan, this is the best guide to the country that I have seen.
