Poland is what is called ‘Bloodlands’, the part of Europe caught between Hitler and Stalin. History. That, and it had been a while since we had a proper wintery Christmas, and seen Christmas markets.
Our first stop was Krakow because a day trip from there was reason #1 for our visit to this part of the world. But before that, I finally found out the reason for my Eastern Europe fixation, thanks to Anna Funder’s Stasiland. Â She calls it horror-romance.
The romance comes from the dream of a better world the German Communists wanted to build out of the ashes of their Nazi past: from each according to his abilities, to each according to his needs. The horror comes from what they did in its name.
Except for a two-hour delay in our return flight, which we spent parked in a Munich runway as snow fell around us, it all worked out very well!
Bekal, and specifically the Taj Bekal has been on the Insta feed and friends’ recommendation list for a long time. And that’s how we ended up creating a mini break for 3 nights, with the express aim of going there to do nothing.
Getting there & getting around
Bangalore has multiple daily flights to Mangalore, and it takes just an hour. Mangalore to Taj Bekal is a 1.5 hr journey with most of it on a fantastic highway. You can get a cab from the airport for Rs.2900. I had read that we could get an Uber, but I couldn’t find any.
We found Bekal Taxi Service thanks to a signboard right outside the hotel. Shyam responded promptly on WhatsApp, and gave us good rates for both the local sightseeing as well as the Airport drop. Clean vehicles, and punctual.
Stay @ Taj Bekal
We booked early enough to get a decent deal – around 17k/night incl breakfast and a 25% off on meals, spa etc. We chose to skip the ‘all meals included’ package though it could be useful if you plan to simply vegetate at the hotel. Taj Bekal is pretty enough, with sufficient (paid) activities to make that an option.
Our room was at one end of the property. We didn’t mind the 5 min walk to the lobby, restaurant etc, and you could get yourself a buggy if you’re lazy, but if that’s not your preference, it’s probably a good idea to make an early request especially if you choose a package.
The room itself was quite large, and the highlight was the swing bed on the balcony. A great way to spend your time doing nothing.
In case you’re wondering if we got arrested in Kalimpong, no. This is a hat tip to what took us to the town. We came to know about the place thanks to Kiran Desai’s The Inheritance of Loss, and one of the key characters in the book is a retired judge, who, by the way, was disdainful of Indians and ate chapatis with a knife and fork. Anyway, that’s why, even with folks staring at us, wondering why anyone would take a photo of this, we just had to. 🙂
Stay @ Kalimpong
We paid a fair premium for Mayfair, especially since our room was priced higher because of a Kanchenjunga peak view (it was cloudy all the time we were there, so no view) but can’t complain. It’s a splendid property in which you can carry out your own treasure hunt discovering history, culture, and spectacular views.
Our first room was spacious and had a great view, but we discovered that it was right below the kitchen! That meant, being a light sleeper, I was woken up at 5AM by the clanging. We shifted rooms and the second, though slightly smaller, was nothing to complain of. You can sit for hours gazing outside. The town and valley playing peekaboo thanks to clouds. When I wasn’t doing that, I was indulging in my guilty pleasure – 80s/90s/2000s Bollywood movies. D usually conspires against a TV in the room, but this time I got lucky.
And it wasn’t just the room, the entire property is just enchanting. In any other place, I’d have found Snow White & the Seven Dwarfs kitsch, but somehow it fit right in. Each building has a name and a history attached to it. The one on the bottom right has played host to several historical figures including Nehru.
The library is exquisite, because it isn’t just books, but artefacts from a different century – from maps to cameras to typewriters, it is an absolute treasure trove for anyone who is into these things.
And if you still need things to do, there’s water, an ancient land machine and lovely sky views.
Eat @ Kalimpong
We only had breakfasts and one dinner at Tiffany, Mayfair’s main restaurant, and it probably wouldn’t be my go-to place for a meal. It’s pricy, and the food is only so-so. I have to admit that between the tablecloth and the instrumental Bollywood music, it was almost like stepping back to restaurants in the 90s. Some lovely nostalgia. The service is also very pleasant and know how to take care of guests.
They also have a cafe called Mamma Mia. We went in because it looked very gram-friendly, and it was. But there were so many places we needed to try that we couldn’t make space for eating here.
Another place we didn’t manage to spend time at was their bar, which too has a fantastic history and teaches us that alcohol can save lives too!
Our first lunch was at The Shire Bistro, which turned out to be the cafe at a homestay. It’s a short walk from Mayfair. If you don’t mind a limited menu, this isn’t a bad place. We liked the Kothey momos and loved the hot soupy Gyathuk. Perfect for the weather.
Our favourite meal though was at Nom Nom Bakery And Korean Cafe, which used to be Cafe Kalimpong earlier. A very happy ambience, smiling and helpful staff, a wonderful night view of Kalimpong, and most importantly, excellent food.
We tried the Korean Kimchi Ramen, Tori Teriyaki Don, and the Japanese cheesecake, and loved everything. There is enough in the menu to visit at least 2-3 times without getting anywhere close to bored.
OTOH, Aam’s courtyard was a disaster. That was mostly thanks to the person who took our order. She was clueless, bungled up most of the simplest things, and to top it all, was giggling all the while! We tried some local pork and pasta, and both left us dejected! I have to wonder how a lot of these restaurants manage to get a 4.5+ rating on Google!
We actually went into Cakes and Crumbs thinking we’d have something to drink, but they didn’t really have anything worthwhile. The Biscoff cheesecake wasn’t bad.
Our final meal in Kalimpong was at Art Cafe. Pretty place with a great view, and we were lucky enough to see mist rising, even as the city lost power for a few minutes!
While the decor was great, most of the items in the menu were unavailable. So we made do with what we could find. D liked her hot chocolate.
My recommendation is to ignore Google mostly, and walk around in the vicinity of Big Will Mart. There are a few restaurants in and around it, and I have a feeling they are better than the ones we tried, barring Nom Nom. There is also the Kalimpong Local which I heard good things about.
Things to do @ Kalimpong
You could walk around with a minimalist agenda and come across views like this.
If you need a driver to take you around (and airport trips), call Suman.
Graham’s House and the 500 acre property is an institution worth a visit.
Classic boarding school feels. Entry is restricted to specific times in the evening. We caught kids at play after their school hours.
Delo is the tallest place in Kalimpong. Again, simply walk around, and if the clouds aren’t hanging around, the views are breathtaking.
At the Buddha Statue and Park, we caught dogs doing things to advance their number, and Buddha being offered Parle G. I took a photo just to ensure it wasn’t an altitude-induced mind-bender.
At the Durpin Monastery, we were in time for the evening prayer, and one child monk was in charge of shepherding everyone in with a gong. Monks were strolling in late, with tea mugs, and altogether it reminded me of college.
Walk around the busy streets and drop in at Big Will Mart (the photo on the right). It’s apparently a little new so our driver wasn’t exactly sure where it was. Google Maps though is accurate.
Kalimpong is quaint little town with a leisurely place. You have a great view at every other corner, and you could simply sit and gaze at it. As with many places in India, squalor and splendour exist side by side. I’d have recommended it as a consideration for retirement, but realised the nearest hospitals are about 2.5 hrs away. That would mean that when it comes to things like a heart attack, the only way would be up!
But yes, heavily recommended for short term inner peace. 🙂
I think this was the first time we crossed a border by road. On a relative scale, the two rounds of checks – one out of Georgia and the other into Armenia – did not take too long. The Armenian security was a little concerned about our alcohol content into the country, but her colleague let us pass saying ‘tourists’. 😀 I forgot the thumb rule of not putting more than one large bottle in a suitcase.
Soon as you cross the border, there is a point at which you can see Azerbaijan literally on the other side of a fence!
The journey itself takes around 5 hours, but we had stops. We started at 9.30 and reached Yerevan around 6. On the way…
The Ijevan Wine-Brandy Factory was part of the tour. It is named after the town. The town’s current name Ijevan, and its name (until 1919) Karavansara, both mean “inn”.
During the tasting, D had a bit of vodka and some wine. For a change, I consumed less, but wonderful cognac! The smell in those storage rooms. Sigh.
Lake Parz, part of the Dilijan National Park, was our next stop. Armenian Ooty/Nainital but a little more peaceful, and the same family crowd. More than the lake itself, it’s the path to it that’s mesmerising. As per our driver, that stretch is an Insta reel hit in Armenia 🙂
But what I found to be the cold, Nordic levels of beauty (which I prefer) was Lake Sevan. The crowds were at the monastery, so there were very few people around.
Ethereal.
The Sevanavank Monastery is a bit of a climb. 🙂 But the views are out of this world.
This doesn’t capture the half of it.
We passed a place named Gagarin, founded in 1955, and named after the cosmonaut.
Yerevan
The Rooftop ApartHotel was where we stayed. The room per se was fine. Breakfast is served in the room, we didn’t enjoy that much.
The views though were amazing. By day…
…and by night.
We walked around in the evening, and saw the Moscow Cinema
Swan Lake, which is a great place to just sit and watch people.
It was too dark to see the St. Astvatsatsin Kathoghike Church that day, so we dropped by the next evening, after the day tour.
The last day of the vacation was spent walking around Yerevan on our own. Ok, a bit of GG taxi too.
The Republic Square is quite a hub of activity.
The History Museum of Armenia is right there.
But our destination, again, was the metro.
Almost like a toy train. And a guard forbade me from taking pictures. So much KGB feels :p
Saint Gregory The Illuminator Cathedral is quite a different architectural style.
It’s a short walk to the Vernissage, in case you want to buy souvenirs.
After lunch and a nap, we took a cab to the Mother Armenia Monument.
It offers a great view of the city.
..and has displays of weaponry!
Missiles in a car park!
We then took a cab back to the Cascade Complex.
And if you are ok with a climb, you can sit in peace for a lovely snapshot of the city.
The sun was only mildly cooperative
But we make do with what we have
The Complex is beautiful after sunset
Out of Yerevan
On our second day in Armenia, we went on a day trip to a few places just outside Yerevan.
Charent’s Arch was the first stop. It gives a feel of Mount Ararat being suspended in air. Very crowded!
The next stop was The Monastery of Geghard, which was, as is usually the case when we visit, being renovated!
At least the view was pretty.
Garni Temple was next. Special because it is the only standing Greco-Roman colonnaded building in Armenia
Again, lovely views as you walk around.
The Symphony of Stones was D’s special addition to the plan. This natural monument is supposedly the result of the collapse of the volcanic rocks.
Symmetric hexagon and pentagon basalt columns, practically hanging out.
The Azat Reservoir viewpoint had no one around save a dog. Breathtaking.
Khor Virap was the last stop, and we attended a wedding there. 🙂
Our first meal in Armenia, after a lunch at a food court on the way, was dinner at the Beer Academy Ethnograph. Decent beer.
..and good pork.
Craving flavours, we went for the Fajitas next, which was excellent.
D tried and loved the pomegranate wine. I loved the bottling.
And I tried a hot and sweet Dunkel, which wasn’t as bad as I expected. 😀
Lavash had been our first choice on the first evening, but they said they don’t have a table, though we offered to wait. Mildly racist vibes. We anyway booked a table for the next evening.
Mulled wine for D. And I tried the Ararat brandy.
Tolma with grape leaves. Beef, rice, spices, matzoon (yogurt) inside. Must try.
Khurjin. Break the dough on top to get to the lamb and vegetables. Super stuff.
Guinness Record Gata for dessert.
As you sit on the balcony watching the skyline at night, though I wouldn’t recommend either, unless you’re a Kingfisher fan.
Sherep wasn’t our first choice, but it was located conveniently and had a good rep. And if you ignore the racist vibes, you’ll be fine. We spent two hours there, mostly thanks to an overall lethargy among the staff to serve our table.
Solyanka, of Russian origin, to begin with
Ishli Kyufta (beef)
Compote is really a comfort when you don’t want alcohol
Ossobuco (veal) with risotto
Broken Flower pot for a sweet ending.
Dinner on the final night of our vacation at Tavern Yerevan. This was recommended by our driver to be a place where one could get real Armenian food, and not the touristy versions. This was priced below the others. A good time to note how the prices at the places above are almost 10x that of a food court!
When there is compote, it was now a no-brainer.
D went around to see how lavash was made. 🙂
Pizza was almost homemade, and delicious.
A beef dish the sauce of which D was slurping, feat. Lavash.
Rubicone Gelato had brandy ice cream!
In a lovely setting.
And thus we got a sweet end to the trip!
Compared to Georgia, I felt that the non-Yerevan part of Armenia was poorer – clothes, vehicles, the crowd, the shops and the kinds of things sold etc. Almost as they have not really figured out their way after the Soviet exit. There is definitely a natural beauty that can be appealing, but Georgia wins on the variety of that too.
The income disparity is evident once you are in Yerevan. Yerevan, I thought, was a typical city, though obviously with its own cultural norms. We even visited their oldest mall – the Dalma Garden Mall. 🙂 I found the city a lot more structured than the winding charm of Tbilisi’s Old Town. The Soviet influence here, I felt, was a lot more than in Tbilisi. But that’s also because we didn’t spend time in that part of Tbilisi. Most people do just a day trip, but I think we spent the right amount of time in Armenia, which is 3 days.
Beyond Tbilisi, we stayed in the Kakheti region, and went on day trips to Uplistsikhe, Mtskheta, and Gori, and another to Kazbegi and Ananuri, going right up to Stepantsminda, which is less than a dozen kilometres from the Russian border.
Georgia is quite blessed by nature and its natural beauty and greenery is fantastic. This was on our way to Kakheti.
Georgia has plenty of monasteries because this was one of the first countries to which Christianity spread. It was also the third country to become officially Christian. This is the older version of the Shuamta Monastery – Dzveli. Our driver-guide talked through the long drive on Georgia’s connection with Biblical mentions, and in general, the history, people, and culture of Georgia.
Nearby is the Akhali Shuamta, made in the 16th century. These are extremely serene places, and even when crowded, folks are very aware of where they are, and do their best not to disturb others. You can also walk around the monastery grounds, some of which include forests.
The Batonis Tsikhe, and Telavi’s version of the city walls. Telavi was also a quiet place, though I suspect people were waiting for the evening to start the celebrations, a version of the one that was happening in Tbilisi.
The grounds of the Batonis Tsikhe were also pleasant and devoid of visitors. So.much.peace. There was also a music college right outside.
The best part was the fantastic view of the Kakheti region. So clearly visible.
King Erekle II is quite a hero to the local populace, for uniting Georgia and trying to modernise it. To the extent our driver-guide named his son after him!
The Giant Plane Tree in Telavi. Delivers exactly what it says. There is also a ‘family of snails’ installation near it, a metaphorical reference to time probably.
Lunch in Telavi was at Kapiloni, and if you sit under those umbrellas, you get a good view.
We had wine…
… a delicious, flavourful Veal Chanakhi with local bread…
… and Khashlama – superbly boiled beef
Street art in Telavi as we wandered around
Theotokos Church isn’t what we came to see, but hey…
…it was very near to the old balconies
The Telavi market. Unless you like produce, nothing to see here 🙂
Tsinandali Estate. D toured while I napped in the car!
It was grapes season, so our guide even got us to pluck some randomly from someone’s garden! We could see trucks carrying loads to be made into wine.
Kabadoni Boutique Hotel is where we stayed in Sighnaghi. They ‘missed’ telling us that the air conditioning was set to winter mode and so we ended up spending a warm night here! The breakfast and the coffee was good though.
The World War II Memorial was right next door. Georgia lost practically half its population in the war.
Sighnaghi has views to die for, and the hotel terrace was a perfect vantage point.
The City Walls are a popular attraction. Some walking to do though.
But if you do walk, you get some beautiful sights.
No, we didn’t walk the entire 5 kilometres!
Time for the sun and us to get down.
Dinner was pretty boring though we finally tried the Beef Ostri. I suspect it was a poor version.
We walked around at around 8 and it was reasonably desolate. Sighnaghi is quite the village with just enough restaurant options. Since department stores sell all kinds of addiction – fast food, cigarettes, alcohol – that was where kids seemed to hang out most!
Off the next morning, after one last look. From a fantastic vantage point on the way to Bodbe.
Bodbe Monastery of Saint Nino. Started to get crowded even (relatively) early in the morning.
One way to look at it…
…and the other
The entire place is quite serene. The nuns maintain some very pretty gardens, grow their own vegetables, and even sell some of it.
The Wedding Palace that we saw while getting back into Tbilisi. From above, its plan has both erm, males and females, well represented. Like some churches that do it more subtly.
Uplistsikhe, the city of caves.
The view was lovely.
Classism was around even then – larger caves for richer folks, more rooms, proximity to pharmacy, located higher etc.
There were even capsules dug into the ground as prison cells. You could just about stand, no space to sit/lie down, and guards peeing down on you!
Georgians take pride in the fact that they were the first in wine making – 6000 BCE! We had a wine tasting session within the caves. The one on the right is Khvanchkara, apparently Stalin’s favourite. Mildly sweet, and ugh.
Speaking of Stalin, we visited his hometown Gori (how apt), and the museum dedicated to him there.
He tried his best to do a bunch of things in photos and paintings. For one, keep his short height a ‘secret’, by standing only when others are seated/shorter than him, or remaining seated when taller folks are standing. He also had the remnants of a skin disease (that had killed his brother) on one side of his face, but he forbade photos of that. The museum also houses the one photo that does show it.
He dreaded flying, and went everywhere by train. This is his favourite coach. Has everything that a home-office needs.
Including a loo. A good time to bring up that a lot of Georgia’s revenue, I think, comes from charging to use the loo. This time we paid to see the loo.
The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta. This place was the original capital of Georgia.
A different kind of cross.
Churchkela, which Georgians usually make in autumn when the primary ingredients, grapes and nuts, are harvested. Made with that and flour. Lasts long, is filling, and easy to carry. Made first for soldiers, apparently.
Jvari Monastery, one of the oldest churches around.
Straight out of LOTR.
The Zhinvali Water Reservoir view point. The colour of that water!
Climb a bit at the Ananuri Fortress Complex…
…and you get a great view.
You could also walk to the bridge nearby.
If you look closely, you can see the White Aragvi and Black Aragvi rivers trying to mix.
The Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument.
But really, it’s the views here that is the thing to see.
360 degrees of astounding panorama.
The Gergeti Trinity Church in Stepantsminda is quite the climb.
But you do get to see Mount Kazbegi in all its splendour.
If you like nature, the feel of Old Towns in Europe, are experimental with food, and especially if you’re fond of wine, Georgia needs to be on your list. It has a bit of everything, is easily accessible and there are enough day tours for you to get a good feel of the place.
And when you’re ready to plan, this is the best guide to the country that I have seen.
