I think we have vicariously traveled and lived in Kyoto thanks to Pico Iyer. Primarily The Lady and the Monk: Four Seasons in Kyoto, but also some mentions in other books, interviews and podcasts. Kyoto has a character that is quite different from Tokyo. It is less hurried and quite laid-back, but I also felt that it tried to keep visitors at an arm’s distance. Tokyo almost didn’t care. Ironically, I observed more foreigners in Kyoto than in Tokyo. Until we figured out the spots, Kyoto’s dinner scene reminded me of Ireland – after 8PM, only drinks and bar bites! But most importantly, Kyoto is definitely prettier.
Meet the Romance Car (Romansukā) – Odakyu Electric Railway’s limited express luxury tourist services south-west of Tokyo, to mountain resorts such as Hakone and Gotemba (Mount Fuji), and beaches such as Odawara and Enoshima. It began in 1957, and was the inspiration for the Shinkansen. We saw this in Hakone while waiting for the Hikari 653 Shinkansen that would take us to Kyoto. (more…)
Japan was always the plan, it was only a matter of when. 🙂 We planned well in advance, but even then, thanks to it being Sakura season, a lot of hotels were sold out. The visa took less than a week to get processed. Bangalore has a direct flight to Tokyo. So all you have to do is, to quote Amrita Rao, ‘JAL lijiye’. Interestingly, the pilot took off immediately after we landed, confusing all of us! We finally landed again after about 20 minutes. Tokyo was our first stop. We began, and ended, our 11-day Japan trip in Tokyo. This is our list of where to stay, what to see, and where and what to eat.
In the epilogue, Nicole Perlroth goes back in history to a summer afternoon in 1976, when in the parking lot of a biker bar, a team of scientists from SRI International (which had an office in Menlo Park) sent the first email over the internet to ARPANET, as a demo for Pentagon officials who had flown in for this. In the world then, national security was largely a function of things in the physical domain – hijacked planes, rogue nations with nukes, drug trafficking, terrorists and so on. (Almost) half a century later, the world is a different place. Forget rogue nations or terrorists, a single hacker can seize control of a plane in mid-air with nothing more than a play on the code in the software running the plane. Everything from election systems, power grids, nuclear power plants, gas pipelines to hospital systems can be held hostage with ransomware. Most of them have been, and every device we use – from mobiles and laptops to connected homes and cars – is vulnerable. This is the story of that transition.
Nicole begins the book in Ukraine, where she was surveying the aftermath of a devastating cyberattack, which included the Chernobyl radiation monitors going offline. The culmination of Russia’s revenge for the 2014 Ukrainian elections, which they unsuccessfully tried to hack. That the hack boomeranged and destroyed Russia’s own oil giant Rosneft’s data is a good example of how even those who unleash attacks cannot be sure of its speed and direction.
But the story begins in the Cold War era, back in 1945, when bugs were ‘microphones’ and the advanced exploits were through anything that was attached to a plug – typewriters, copiers, printers etc. There is an extraordinary story from 1984 of Project Gunman, and how a coil in an electric typewriter was ‘weaponised’ with a magnetometer and a recording device for spying!
And then came the computers. The first version of Linux had 176000 lines of code, now Microsoft’s Vista has 50 million. Each a potential vulnerability. Back in the day – from the late 90s, brokers started paying coders to purchase exploits in hardware/firmware/software – Sun, Cisco, Microsoft, HP, Oracle. They then sold it to these companies, sometimes having to show them proof of how it could be exploited. As the internet grew in size and became a global network, an underground market for exploits formed and the US government started building an arsenal including zero-days (a software/hardware flaw which doesn’t have a patch yet, called so because the ‘good guys’ have zero days to fix them). Some zero days are ‘ideal state’ – they require zero interaction from the target’s end, no mails or messages, and also ‘clean fail’ – they wouldn’t trigger an alert or crash a computer. But since the days of Stuxnet (2010), which had as many as seven zero-days and was used by the US to neutralise Iran’s Natanz nuclear facility), things changed. Just like Hiroshima, a weapon had been revealed and it would not go back into the box (Michael Hayden, former NSA director).
Also, in 2007 came the iPhone, supercharging the era of government snooping, and an invasion of privacy with minimum effort! By 2015, the NSA was even snooping on their own First Lady! It is now a minefield with different governments including not just powers like Russia and China but Iran, North Korea, Israel their opponents within the country and outside, hacker groups, tech companies, and government agencies all in an arms race to win cyber wars in milliseconds.
The book has many interesting stories. The origins of Pegasus (by the NSO in Israel), named after the winged horse, and which could capture vast amounts of data from the air without leaving a trace. Aurora – the Chinese Legion Yankee attack on Google, and Brin’s strong response, though it was only for a short while. Argentina’s thriving hacker ecosystem, Iran’s ‘burning flag’ response to the US in its Aramco hack, Russia’s hacking of the DNC, WannaCry by Lazarus from North Korea, HeartBleed based on a widely used OpenSSL software, the linkage between the assassination of Jamal Khashoggi, the purchase of exploits by Emiratis, and the publishing of Bezos’ private photos (the source was actually the mistress’ brother, but the phone was simultaneously hacked too) are all signs of an escalating war. There is also a funny story on how, after Trump ordered Russia to close their San Francisco consulate, plumes of black smoke began pouring out of their building’s chimney. They were obviously burning something, and when a reporter asked an exiting man and woman about it, with acrid smoke billowing around them, they replied, “there is no burning.”
The weapon will not go back into the box, and it is now capable of devastation in milliseconds. The world, while aware of this, is not willing to find alignment on things that will now start taking human lives. One excellent place to start is to stop taking buggy code to market. In an economy that rewards first-to-market and “move fast and break things”, this is not going to be easy. As usual, Scandinavia leads the pack for safety, but Japan offers an instructive lesson in making cyber hygiene a priority for everyone from government agencies to individuals. But this provides no comfort because it is really an arms race with seemingly no end.
The narrative is relentless and extremely accessible. It throws light on an area which we shouldn’t be ignoring, given how much is at stake. For me, it is also a validation on not going beyond the mobile phone in terms of tech hardware. But that really is small relative safety, nothing more. And just like Nicole, I wonder when we will see the ‘mushroom cloud’.
One of my only birthday rituals has been getting a call in the morning from an aunt and uncle, though they have been more friends than uncle/aunt. This year there was no call in the morning. I wondered what happened. I realised that our last conversation ended with me reprimanding them for calling me in the middle of a work day morning! The no-call bothered me and I thought to myself that at some point in their life, people should let go of their egos and silly sulks. The note to self was to be more conscious of the ego’s manifestations.
At work, a colleague wrote, asking for some work to be done at the very last minute. The team was already stretched, and I wrote back curtly, reminding him that we had met for this a few weeks ago, and discussed the deliverables in advance, precisely because I wanted to avoid this! I had a feeling he would escalate this.
My aunt called in the evening. I couldn’t pick up since I was on a call. She left a voice message. She had woken up with a migraine, and had been in bed all day. We spoke later in the evening, and bantered as usual.
The colleague wrote back, profusely thanking us for all the help we had given him thus far. He understood that this would be tough, and he was fine with whatever we could manage, even if it was nothing.
In the many podcasts and books I have read/heard (Jack Kornfield on the TKP podcast being the latest), the lesson is usually about the present moment. Every moment, we have a choice. To be the best version of ourselves, or not. I have had a gazillion misses, and a handful of hits. What I have learned from the latter is that there is an afterglow when we are able to be the best version. It is possible to do that without an expectation in return. In fact, it is quite selfish – such is the feeling.
In addition to pausing ‘in the moment’, there are two tricks I read/heard to repeat this. The first (from Unwinding Anxiety) is savour the moment and update the brain on how good the feeling is. Because the brain is most likely trained on a notion of loss we might suffer if we say, let go of the ego or interest. Updating it repeatedly redirects it to a new habit formation. The second (from an episode in The Hidden Brain podcast) is also related to habit-changing. Though it was discussed in the context of more standard habits, I realised it could be tooled for this purpose as well. Buy a band or a ring, and make a covenant with yourself – of sticking to the habit you want to create. Each time you fail, switch the band/ring to the other hand.
Besting myself, as the birthdays pile on, is possible, but it does take effort. However, I am quite sure now that it’s also a journey full of joys. Time to march with the band!
After I watched the movie, I felt compelled to read the book. For those who have taken the same route, this is not Fern’s story, she is a fictional character. But she does make a great representative for the nonfictional reality of those who have taken a less travelled road.
There are two alternate narratives at play – in one, the economics of the times forces people into living a nomad life in RVs and vans. In the other, people choose to live a life of freedom without being tethered to a place. There is deep poignancy in both. While a big culprit is indeed the Great Recession, I found many of the origin stories startling. One wrong move or a chance incident causing a drastic change in lifestyle – a messy divorce, a bad investment, a health condition (self or family). When groceries, utilities, medicines, credit card debts and so on are done, and nothing is left, you start to really think about rent and sometimes choose to be house-less before you become homeless.
People with master’s degrees who have held down white-collar jobs, travelled internationally, owned million-dollar properties, now forced to do labor at beet harvests in below-freezing temperatures, made to work overtime in the U.S. Forest Service in part-time jobs without overtime pay, or do mind-numbing work at Amazon warehouses. In all cases body-breaking, at an age when the body is on its downward trajectory. And such is corporate greed that they’d rather have an ambulance waiting outside for the inevitable trips to the hospital than improve working conditions. Intelligent people, who get slotted in roles far below what they are capable of. A globe-trotting software executive now working five days a week at an Amazon warehouse until just before dawn, on overtime shifts lasting 12 hours, with half an hour for lunch and two fifteen minute breaks. In his old life, he had spent $100000 a year, now he has learned to get by with $75 a week. People who have to take 4 ibuprofens for the pain before heading to work! This is the behind-the-scenes of Cyber Monday.
What goes on in the minds of those who have taken this path – their relationships with family and the communities they form, their own thoughts of how they are spending their lives, their sense of identity, their future? They don’t want to be thought of as poor and whining, there is pride and sense of agency. And many of them may not choose to go back to their earlier lives. But I wonder.
Through many unforgettable people – poets and bloggers and artists and ordinary folks – Jessica Bruder brings this all to life. She hasn’t parachuted into the story at different points. She has gone through the steep learning curve, endured and survived, had an ‘unbeetable experience’, worked in the Amazon warehouse, and lived this life for three years in Halen, her rig. Thanks to that, this isn’t just casual reporting. It’s written with inquisitiveness, understanding and empathy, and is a must-read because there is a life that’s outside of the American Dream, which offers lessons to all of humanity.
Notes Michael Reynolds “We have to find secure sustenance for people that is not subject to the monster called the economy. The economy is a game. This game should be about nonessential things (motorcycles, computers, televisions). A person feeding their family, staying alive, having shelter…that should not be subject to an economy.” “Which parts of this life are you willing to give up so you can keep on living?”
