Author: manuscrypts

Kashmir: Gulmarg, Pahalgam

Continued from Kashmir: Srinagar, Sonamarg

Gulmarg

Stay

The stay was at Heevan Retreat, which was walking distance from the gondola. There are places closer to town, but since the gondola was our only plan here, we chose this. The rooms were comfortable though I felt a bit sad for the staff who had to lug the suitcase across a maze of staircases! Their restaurant food and service is quite good.

See/Do

In the evening we set off for a little walk, primarily to scout the location for the next day’s adventure – the Gulmarg Gondola. That’s the building where it all begins.

As with Sonamarg, there will be a bunch of people selling rides to the multiple things-to-see, so you won’t have any difficulty in case that interests you. But if you walk away from all of that, there are some peaceful corners.

The Gondola ride is quite an event. The tickets need to be booked online (though I think agents might do that for you as well) and you’ve to keep track of when it will open for your specific dates. Start watching at least two months before your dates. Since you’re going there you might as well see both Phase 1 and Phase 2. Separate tickets, so buy both. Don’t worry about the timings much, if you have a ticket for each, that doesn’t really matter. We had 1.30-3.30 for Phase 1 and Phase 2 from 9AM – 1PM.

The internet warned us to be there at least by 8.30 if we wanted to use the 9AM slot so that’s when we got there. As with most things India, we stood in the queue for 1.5 hrs (opening time was delayed by an hour). While you’re in the queue, different sellers will tell you that your jacket/gloves/socks aren’t enough. We had three layers – thermal, tee, and jacket. And in terms of bottom wear, I found a jeans to be sufficient. We carried gloves but didn’t feel the need to use them. Gum boots, which you will need to rent from outside the gate before standing in the queue, are only necessary if you plan to wade into the snow. Our all-terrain Columbia shoes were just fine for our needs.

When the doors opened, touts tried to get their clients in and there was the usual noise. Once you pass the door, the queue snakes until you reach the checking counter. Pro tip: if you want to use the loo, do that soon as you get in, be warned that when you try to get back into the line, there will be protests. Ignore.

The ride to Phase 1 is about 10-15 minutes assuming the power doesn’t go off. More on that in a bit. The view is picturesque. The glasses are scratched af, so maybe just enjoy the view.

At Phase 1, you can either stay or continue to Phase 2 – another queue. There is a loo here too, and a restaurant as well. As you can see, this is crowded, and you have different experiences to choose from if you’re so inclined. We went straight for the Phase 2 queue, which moves slower because the number of gondolas are lesser. As we stood in the line, the gondolas stopped for about 5 mins before they switched on the power backup.

The ride to Phase 2 is steeper, slightly longer, and far prettier. It is at a higher altitude, which means lesser oxygen. If you have some related ailment, including cardiovascular, plan around 30 mins here. It is less crowded, but touts still abound. The view is easily better than Phase 1.

Yes, there’s pizza. ‘Highest’, I am not sure.

Our ride back was adventurous. We were stuck mid-air between Phase 2 and Phase 1 for about 30 minutes. Our company was two pairs of Punjabi uncles and aunties, who kept up a constant commentary on Indian tourism (vs Canada). One of them also proceeded to call up someone in the tourism ministry. Ironically, thanks to the sun beating down directly and the ventilation being poor, it got hot inside the gondola. Thanks to the ordeal, we skipped Phase 1 and took the ride back to terra firma. Our gondola from Phase 1 stopped midway too, but only for 5 minutes. In later conversations, it turned out this was a regular occurrence.

After a quick lunch, we got out and on the way down to Gulmarg, stopped at the Habba Khatoon viewpoint.

Pahalgam

We stayed at The Chinar for a couple of nights. This is reasonably away from everything, which is what we wanted. But there are other options nearer to town, as well as resorts within walking distance from each other. The restaurant buffet was not bad at all, so we didn’t really miss anything.

The panorama pic doesn’t do the view justice. But it was fantastic and we spend hours just looking at it from the balcony.

The hotel grounds were pretty too, and D did her morning walk ritual to capture some beautiful shots.

See/Do

Baisaran Valley is on the list of must-do. Thing is, you can only do this by pony. And depending on the spots you want to see, the rates can go from Rs. 1800-4500 per person. The ride one way is close to an hour. The ponies love to walk near the edge to troll you! And if the snow has melted, be ready for mud baths courtesy the pony in front of you!

And this is what you get to see. One of the many mini-Switzerlands in this part of the world.

The other regular itinerary here is called ABC – Aru, Betaab, and Chandanwari. We chose to see only the second, thanks to D’s Sunny Deol fandom. 😉 This is just 30 minutes from town, and a great place to simply walk around and enjoy the vista.

Around Pahalgam is also the best place to get your lil DDLJ moment. 🙂

Our trip back was also adventurous. Though we were well in time for the flight, thanks to everyone scaring us to expect at least 3 hours for security checks (we got lucky and it got over fast), that itself was delayed by several hours. We had to catch the connecting flight from Delhi and that meant light cardio happened as we ran to the gate, not helped at all by a young, lackadaisical person from Air India.

Our Kashmir trip was 7D/6N and cost us a little less than 2L, mostly thanks to the stay. The itinerary was Srinagar – Sonamarg – Gulmarg – Pahalgam (2N) – Srinagar. The drive between these places is between 3.5-4.5 hours. Also, at all these places, you’ll need to hire local drivers for the local sightseeing, as they have unions.

A good idea to really hunt for a sensible driver. Ours wasn’t and couldn’t even suggest clean restaurants with loos. If your driver is useless, a good idea would be to do everything at hotels/resorts and avoid breaks for this. Also, when you pick restaurants, don’t always go by Google ratings, check as many photos as possible. A classic example is The OTR in Pahalgam! Has a 4.6, but I am now trying to banish that memory!

A few days after we finished our Kashmir vacation, the friend I mentioned in the previous post started his travel business. If you’re planning a trip, do check it out. The idiot showed me those lovely properties after I completed the trip. With friends like these… 😂

May 12, 2024
Kashmir : Srinagar, Sonamarg

We missed our flight! In more than two decades of travel, this was a first, and needed to be documented. The good news is that it didn’t derail us much, and we landed in Kashmir a couple of hours later than planned.

Srinagar

The one-hour drive from the airport was made pleasant by an unexpected but lovely sunset at Dal Lake. We go chasing sunsets when we travel, so this was a lovely surprise.

Stay

We stayed at The Dewan, and quite amazingly were the youngest guests! I think the hotel had been attacked by a bus full of elderly tourists, many of whom appeared to be from Bangalore. Decent rooms, and we were there only for a night. This is away from the centre, but close to Shalimar and Nishat. Our plan was to visit at least one of these soon as we landed, but we couldn’t thanks to the delay.

On our last night in Kashmir, we stayed at Sukoon houseboat. On Dal Lake, this is likely the best one. You could also check the options at Nigeen Lake, which apparently is even more quieter.

But we loved Sukoon. Excellent, comfortable rooms though I found them a little anti-national because there were no jetsprays in the toilet.

Callback to an old era. Just like the books in the reception lounge area.

There are some excellent vantage points. This is at the entrance.

…and this is on the roof.

This is the fantastic view in the morning.

…and this one is towards the end of the day.

See/Do

A shikara ride was part of our package, and we did this around sunset. ‘Sukoon’ is the perfect way to describe it. It really gives you a great feel of a way of a way of life.

We saw some other pretty houseboats…

…a full fledged market

and mobile stores for everything from flowers

to fruits

..and desserts!

The Tulip Festival was what we had timed this trip for. Thankfully, the tulips behaved well and were in full bloom… Expect the place to be packed, though the queue per se wasn’t bad at all. It didn’t help that our visit coincided with the day after Eid.

After you’ve had your fill of tulips, walk around and enjoy the vista too.

In a toss up between Nishat and Shalimar, we chose the former. Very pretty, but it’s sad how we trash the place. The staff were busy picking up plastic in the morning. 😐

It provides a lovely view of Dal Lake.

At Pari Mahal, people tend to do the ‘I believe I can fly’ pose (top left)…

I have to admit, it’d be a great view if we could fly!

The burning question for me as we climbed up to the Shankaracharya temple was how he managed to do it without thermals. Even if he visited in summer…

Anyway, the view from the temple is just breathtaking.

Eat

What’s a visit to Kashmir without the wazwan? We were lucky enough to have a delicious version of it at a friend’s home, and then Ahdoos went and created a benchmark on how a gastronomic experience should be. As is par for the course, we did spend some time waiting in a queue, but the ambience, the involvement of the service staff (history, context, how-to, all in commentary, and adding stuff gratis just so we enjoyed the experience) and the delectable food – presentation and taste, all make it an absolute must-visit. Cannot recommend it enough.

Le Delice was a great suggestion from my friend, and we visited one of their outlets in City Mall, which, I have to mention, does not have escalators going down!

Since we had a multi-hop return flight, we packed ourselves a marble cake and a walnut brownie. Both excellent. Sigh.

Our best meal though was the one we had with a school friend of mine. Though he is Kashmiri, he has lived more in Kerala and Bangalore! 🙂 We had a lovely time with his family who fed us way more than our capacity. It continues to amaze me how we can quickly form a lifetime bond with people we have never met before, and whose affection makes our best memories from the trip.

Sonamarg

Our first stop was Sonamarg, and the route was all postcards.

The mountains got snowier and closer as we drove along.

We even saw the remains of an avalanche!

Sonmarg, or at least the part that is in the must-see list was insanely crowded. Thajiwas Glacier is the thing to see here, and you have multiple ways of reaching it – snow bike and sleds. A combination of the crowd, the incessant pitches by touts, and the Bajrangi Bhaijaan association ensured that we skipped it.

Stay

Instead we drove on to a place aptly titled for the context – Village Retreat – where we planned to stay. Very comfortable, though you might want to ask for a room with a view if you’re so inclined. But if you don’t get those, don’t worry, you can sit on those chairs outside their restaurant…

…and you’ll have this view. We sat there as the temperature dropped to a little below zero, but there was no snowfall. Peaceful and serene.

A mutton Biryani and a fiery Kashmiri Chicken lunch at the restaurant kept us full for the rest of the day.

We pecked at a Chicken Kanti (listed as a local favourite everywhere) for dinner.

This was part of a week-long trip to Kashmir. The remaining days were in Gulmarg and Pahalgam, and that’s what the next post will be about.

May 5, 2024
Wanderers, Kings, Merchants

Peggy Mohan

For a while, I have been fascinated by the similarity in words across languages – from the simple biradar-brother to the slightly more elaborate Agni-ignite. I even started a Twitter thread to keep track of these ‘discoveries’. Linguistics per se, the theory of it though, is less of a fascination. I started reading it with the notion that it would be this, but was pleasantly surprised. I love history and that’s what Peggy Mohan has actually done using language(s) and their evolution as her tool in Wanderers Kings Merchants.

She gives us a quick introduction with Creoles in the Caribbean, and points out the appearance of the vocabulary layer, which is influenced by the more powerful group (usually male), and the more intrinsic sound and grammar, which is the maternal side of the story – mother tongue. With this background she brings the narrative to India and creates a storyline using different languages.

She begins with the presence of sounds of Dravidian origin in the recitation of the Rig Veda, and with supporting historical & DNA evidence of a male-driven migration about 3500 year ago when the Harappan civilisation was in decline, traces the Vedic male – local wife combination which led to the Dravidian sounds in the Rig Veda. To be noted that this didn’t happen in the beginning when they were orally preserved and transferred, but around 700 years later when they were formally compiled, edited and written down, reflecting a Sanskrit which by then had vernacular sounds. This was also when the Kuru super-tribe spread east and south, from Kabul to Andhra, taking Sanskrit along. This Sanskrit then mixed with the language of the elite in these regions and created the first versions of Prakrit. As the language trickled down from the elite to the masses, or rather, locals moved up in lifestyles and hence words used, the influence of the latter’s native tongue became stronger and around 1000 CE marked the beginning of the Indo Aryan languages, first as dialects in small areas, and then gradually expanding their domain.

Meanwhile, in my little state of Kerala, around 800 CE, brahmins relocated from the north – Namboodiris, at the behest of local kings. As with the story up north, male-driven migration + local women and an elite happened. The brahmins’ original Apabhramsa language (a ‘corrupted form of Sanskrit that didn’t follow Paninian rules) faded because they had to pick up Malayalam in the long-term, and centuries later, a new language Manipravalam emerged – Sanskrit nouns in (erstwhile) Malayalam sentences. Interesting that a sociopolitical tumult also happened here around the same time – the rise of the Second Chera Empire and the beginning of a strong Malayali identity distinct from Tamil/Cholas. In parallel, a resurgence of Hinduism at the expense of Buddhism and the re-emergence of Brahminical Hinduism.

Similarly, the Central Asian influx into the north (Delhi Sultanate, Mughals) brought with it Uzbek, which quickly vanished as the Central Asians started using the dialect in the region (Hindi) as their vernacular. It was only in the late 1700s that they moved from using Persian as the official language and started writing in Hindi – then renamed Urdu, with an infusion of Persian nouns.

She then takes us to the contemporary example of Nagamese – the grammar of Assamese and a small portion of Naga. It grows even as the both Assamese and the Naga languages continue to exist. The flashback on Assamese is Ahom, courtesy migrants from Burma. This itself is a later episode of the SE Asia + Munda people of the Magadha region. This combination, and the presence of the Vratyas, a pre-Vedic Arya group, is what makes the Magadha languages different from Dravidian.

The most recent play- British and English. The British not only created a Hindi-Urdu divide which hadn’t existed before, but also, thanks to having Indian employees, got the latter to pick up English, though mostly in ‘Prakrit English’ form in the beginning. Ironically, English really spread only after Independence, because the elites wanted to retain their hold on power using language as an access point, and were helped by the fact that no single language had the heft to cover the entire country. And that’s where we are now. ‘What had started as a code to identify the elite snowballed into something set to replace our older languages and cultures as it trickled down, forging a new homogeneity.’

I have to admit I glazed over some of the parts where she decided to go a little deep (by my standards) on technicality of language, but I found the book to be mostly accessible, and definitely fascinating. If you’re even vaguely interested in history, this is a must-read.

Interesting points
Cows as a metaphor for women in the Rig Veda.
The uncanny resemblance between Panini, and the Phoenicians (Poeni in Latin)
Ditto Turkic Ordu (army) and horde
Urdu got its name in the Deccan in 1780, and in its later usage was practically the same as Hindi, both belonging to Hindus and Muslims, until the British decided to cause a split by trying to create a shudh Sanskritised version of Hindi, and in addition the use of Devanagari script. The idea being that they wanted to undermine Urdu, written in Persian script, because it was associated with the Mughal empire.

April 28, 2024
Dam’s Kitchen

I hope to see Kammanahalli (Kalyan Nagar) given an honorary status as a Korean suburb in my lifetime, for its contribution to popularising the cuisine in Bangalore. But then again, that would make the place a candidate for multiple citizenships! We were in the mood for Korean and this one came up when we did some Seoul searching. #oksorry

Dam’s Kitchen is off the main road, on two floors, is non pretentious, and manages to use the typical partitioning in Korean restaurants to create small cosy spaces, complete with your very own gas cylinder for the barbecues!

We ordered the Yukgaejang (right) and Dwaeji Meori Gukbab (middle) first. The first is described as the spiciest soup available, and is made with beef strips and vegetables stir fried and boiled in brothy soup. It wasn’t too spicy, and the rice anyway tempered it. We loved it, but on a relative note the Gukbab was the winner. It has pork, soy sauce, miso, rice wine, sesame oil, bone broth and all this made for a fantastic hearty soup. Really chicken soup for the soul (see, I resisted the urge). While the stomach was full, we wanted something to nibble on and ordered Chilli Chicken (without the rice and condiments) Deep fried, chilli sauce and chopped chillis. Great taste, and texture, just the way it should be. We ate half and packed the remaining for dinner. 😌

We felt lighter by just a little below Rs.2500, which included some kombucha. They only had Soju, not Makgeolli. The service is quite friendly and prompt, and the overall ambience is quite peaceful. Lovely place for a lazy Sunday lunch.

Dam’s Kitchen, 301, 5th D Main Road, HRBR Layout 2nd Block Kalyan Nagar Ph: 9148553661

April 21, 2024
Affluenza

Oliver James

The title grabbed my attention, but the book remained on ‘want to read’ for a while. But the moment I started Affluenza, I knew I would be biased. For starters, it was echoing my own worldview, and that too, quoting Erich Fromm, whose Fear of Freedom was in my favourites list in 2022. However, here’s the kicker – when I showed an excerpt to a couple of people whom I thought would especially benefit from it, they immediately acknowledged that it was a great insight for the current times. Except, this book is from 2007. That could fill you with hope or despair.

Oliver James introduces Affluenza as a virus that inculcates a set of values that increase the chance of emotional distress. Its source – a political economy that he calls Selfish Capitalism, a mix of unregulated capitalism and consumerism. The book is a critical examination of the impact of consumerism and materialism on society and individuals.

In eight of the chapters, he uses research from multiple countries to highlight the psychological, social, and environmental consequences of the pursuit of material wealth and argues that affluence, rather than bringing happiness and fulfilment, can actually lead to a range of psychological problems and social ills. Advertising and marketing campaigns are designed to exploit our insecurities and desires in order to create an insatiable appetite for consumer goods. As a result, people become obsessed with their own image and status, constantly seeking validation through the acquisition of new and more expensive possessions. A vicious cycle, creating in addition to the familiar haves and have-nots, the have-mores! The end result, as Fromm also predicted, is person-as-commodity, and thus unbridled self-promotion.

The chapters move from personal to familial and then societal, and offer a point of view at the end (of each) called ‘vaccines’. At the individual level, ironically, as we make all efforts for attaining more material wealth, the impact of affluence on our psychological well-being is not automatically great. He argues that material wealth can lead to a range of mental health problems, including anxiety, depression, and addiction. This is because the constant pursuit of material possessions can never truly satisfy our deeper emotional needs, leading to a sense of emptiness and meaninglessness in our lives. In fact he sees emotional stress as a rational response to sick societies. The chapter on motives and goals is the one I found to be critical to break out of the ‘zombie existence’.

At the familial level, the focus is a lot on parenting and parenthood. This is particularly important because childhood circumstances have a huge impact on our wiring – motives and goals. Given where we are, he recommends understanding them and replacing them systematically. He does have a few controversial views on motherhood and career orientation, but I think they are up for an objective debate. (The case of a 3 year old in China with the packed schedule was appalling)

At the societal level, it is not just about the selves we present to each other, and the ‘keep up with (and overtake) the Joneses’. It is also about the kind of education and priorities we pass on to the next generation. Additionally, there is also the impact of consumer culture on the environment. James argues that our obsession with material possessions is leading to the depletion of natural resources and the degradation of the environment. He suggests that we need to adopt a more sustainable and responsible approach to consumption in order to protect the planet for future generations. He also takes a sharp shot at what Selfish Capitalism has done to the ideas of neoliberalism – meritocracy, egalitarianism, female emancipation and democracy (see excerpt below)

The book has its fair share of criticism, but I think by asking us to question our own values and priorities, and to consider whether there might be more fulfilling and sustainable paths to happiness and well-being, he is on to something. “The solution is to think hard about what you really enjoy. The chances are that you have not done this, truly, for a very long time.” I think that’s a good place to start.

Excerpts

Modern education has been sold under a false prospectus containing three untruths. The first is that it will bring meritocracy, which it has not; and the pretence of it, requiring absurdly long hours devoted to passing mind-sapping, pathology-inducing exams, is hugely harmful to our children’s (and especially our daughters’) well-being. The second is that by enabling people to rise up the system, it will confer well-being, which it does not. The third is that exam results are crucial for our individual and national economic prosperity, and that is simply not true.

Let’s look at the four basic, closely related, defining political ideals of modern social organisation which my travels call into question, at least in their present form: meritocracy, egalitarianism, female emancipation and democracy itself. I want to examine them not because I doubt their desirability, but because I fear they have been hijacked by Selfish Capitalism. All the ideals have been rock-solid vote-winners: what majority of Western electorates would not want to be able to advance through merit rather than class, to have equality of opportunity and to liberate women from their traditional role? As time passed, both ruling parties subtly perverted the use of these words to refer to Virus values, rather than their true meanings. Insidiously, meritocracy became a method for educating the workforce and selecting the most promising managers of an economy increasingly geared to making the rich richer and consumers carry on consuming. Opportunity became a mantra for becoming rich, for the material aspiration of everyone to better themselves, so that consumption would flourish. Female emancipation became a cracking good stunt for increasing the size and quality of the workforce and enabling employers to smash the unions in an economy with gender- neutral jobs. Democracy became the right to vote for people who would make you richer and better able to pleasure yourself. All these changes were invariably served up with lavish helpings of the word ‘freedom’, which must have set George Orwell turning in his grave, muttering ‘remember double- think, remember doublethink’. The problem was not with the four ideals but with what was done in their name. If they had been implemented to increase our emotional well-being, rather than the wealth of a tiny minority, they would have taken very different forms.

April 14, 2024