Author: manuscrypts

  • Armenia

    From Tbilisi to Yerevan via…

    I think this was the first time we crossed a border by road. On a relative scale, the two rounds of checks – one out of Georgia and the other into Armenia – did not take too long. The Armenian security was a little concerned about our alcohol content into the country, but her colleague let us pass saying ‘tourists’. 😀 I forgot the thumb rule of not putting more than one large bottle in a suitcase.

    Soon as you cross the border, there is a point at which you can see Azerbaijan literally on the other side of a fence!

    The journey itself takes around 5 hours, but we had stops. We started at 9.30 and reached Yerevan around 6. On the way…

    The Ijevan Wine-Brandy Factory was part of the tour. It is named after the town. The town’s current name Ijevan, and its name (until 1919) Karavansara, both mean “inn”.

    Ijevan, Armenia

    During the tasting, D had a bit of vodka and some wine. For a change, I consumed less, but wonderful cognac! The smell in those storage rooms. Sigh.

    Ijevan, Armenia

    Lake Parz, part of the Dilijan National Park, was our next stop. Armenian Ooty/Nainital but a little more peaceful, and the same family crowd. More than the lake itself, it’s the path to it that’s mesmerising. As per our driver, that stretch is an Insta reel hit in Armenia 🙂

    Lake Parz, Armenia

    But what I found to be the cold, Nordic levels of beauty (which I prefer) was Lake Sevan. The crowds were at the monastery, so there were very few people around.

    Lake Sevan, Armenia

    Ethereal.

    Lake Sevan, Armenia

    The Sevanavank Monastery is a bit of a climb. 🙂 But the views are out of this world.

    Sevanavank Monastery, Armenia

    This doesn’t capture the half of it.

    Sevanavank Monastery, Armenia

    We passed a place named Gagarin, founded in 1955, and named after the cosmonaut.

    Yerevan

    The Rooftop ApartHotel was where we stayed. The room per se was fine. Breakfast is served in the room, we didn’t enjoy that much.

    Rooftop ApartHotel, Yerevan

    The views though were amazing. By day…

    Rooftop ApartHotel, Yerevan

    …and by night.

    Rooftop ApartHotel, Yerevan

    We walked around in the evening, and saw the Moscow Cinema

    Moscow Cinema, Yerevan

    Swan Lake, which is a great place to just sit and watch people.

    Swan Lake, Yerevan

    It was too dark to see the St. Astvatsatsin Kathoghike Church that day, so we dropped by the next evening, after the day tour.

    St. Astvatsatsin Kathoghike Church, Yerevan

    The last day of the vacation was spent walking around Yerevan on our own. Ok, a bit of GG taxi too.

    The Republic Square is quite a hub of activity.

    Republic Square, Yerevan

    The History Museum of Armenia is right there.

    History Museum of Armenia, Yerevan

    But our destination, again, was the metro.

    Yerevan Metro

    Almost like a toy train. And a guard forbade me from taking pictures. So much KGB feels :p

    Yerevan Metro

    Saint Gregory The Illuminator Cathedral is quite a different architectural style.

    Saint Gregory The Illuminator Cathedral, Yerevan

    It’s a short walk to the Vernissage, in case you want to buy souvenirs.

    Vernissage Market, Yerevan

    After lunch and a nap, we took a cab to the Mother Armenia Monument.

    Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

    It offers a great view of the city.

    Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

    ..and has displays of weaponry!

    Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

    Missiles in a car park!

    Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

    We then took a cab back to the Cascade Complex.

    Cascade Complex, Yerevan

    And if you are ok with a climb, you can sit in peace for a lovely snapshot of the city.

    Cascade Complex, Yerevan

    The sun was only mildly cooperative

    Cascade Complex, Yerevan

    But we make do with what we have

    The Complex is beautiful after sunset

    Cascade Complex, Yerevan

    Out of Yerevan

    On our second day in Armenia, we went on a day trip to a few places just outside Yerevan.

    Charent’s Arch was the first stop. It gives a feel of Mount Ararat being suspended in air. Very crowded!

    Charent's Arch, Armenia

    The next stop was The Monastery of Geghard, which was, as is usually the case when we visit, being renovated!

    The Monastery of Geghard, Armenia

    At least the view was pretty.

    The Monastery of Geghard, Armenia

    Garni Temple was next. Special because it is the only standing Greco-Roman colonnaded building in Armenia

    Garni Temple, Armenia

    Again, lovely views as you walk around.

    Garni Temple, Armenia

    The Symphony of Stones was D’s special addition to the plan. This natural monument is supposedly the result of the collapse of the volcanic rocks.

    Symphony of Stones, Armenia

    Symmetric hexagon and pentagon basalt columns, practically hanging out.

    Symphony of Stones, Armenia

    The Azat Reservoir viewpoint had no one around save a dog. Breathtaking.

    Azat Reservoir, Armenia

    Khor Virap was the last stop, and we attended a wedding there. 🙂

    Khor Virap, Armenia

    Our first meal in Armenia, after a lunch at a food court on the way, was dinner at the Beer Academy Ethnograph. Decent beer.

    Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

    ..and good pork.

    Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

    Craving flavours, we went for the Fajitas next, which was excellent.

    Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

    D tried and loved the pomegranate wine. I loved the bottling.

    Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

    And I tried a hot and sweet Dunkel, which wasn’t as bad as I expected. 😀

    Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

    Lavash had been our first choice on the first evening, but they said they don’t have a table, though we offered to wait. Mildly racist vibes. We anyway booked a table for the next evening.

    Lavash, Yerevan

    Mulled wine for D. And I tried the Ararat brandy.

    Lavash, Yerevan

    Tolma with grape leaves. Beef, rice, spices, matzoon (yogurt) inside. Must try.

    Lavash, Yerevan

    Khurjin. Break the dough on top to get to the lamb and vegetables. Super stuff.

    Lavash, Yerevan

    Guinness Record Gata for dessert.

    Lavash, Yerevan

    As you sit on the balcony watching the skyline at night, though I wouldn’t recommend either, unless you’re a Kingfisher fan.

    Armenia

    Sherep wasn’t our first choice, but it was located conveniently and had a good rep. And if you ignore the racist vibes, you’ll be fine. We spent two hours there, mostly thanks to an overall lethargy among the staff to serve our table.

    Sherep, Yerevan

    Solyanka, of Russian origin, to begin with

    Sherep, Yerevan

    Ishli Kyufta (beef)

    Sherep, Yerevan

    Compote is really a comfort when you don’t want alcohol

    Sherep, Yerevan

    Ossobuco (veal) with risotto

    Sherep, Yerevan

    Broken Flower pot for a sweet ending.

    Sherep, Yerevan

    Dinner on the final night of our vacation at Tavern Yerevan. This was recommended by our driver to be a place where one could get real Armenian food, and not the touristy versions. This was priced below the others. A good time to note how the prices at the places above are almost 10x that of a food court!

    Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

    When there is compote, it was now a no-brainer.

    Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

    D went around to see how lavash was made. 🙂

    Pizza was almost homemade, and delicious.

    Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

    A beef dish the sauce of which D was slurping, feat. Lavash.

    Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

    Rubicone Gelato had brandy ice cream!

    Rubicone Gelato, Yerevan

    In a lovely setting.

    Rubicone Gelato, Yerevan

    And thus we got a sweet end to the trip!

    Rubicone Gelato, Yerevan

    Compared to Georgia, I felt that the non-Yerevan part of Armenia was poorer – clothes, vehicles, the crowd, the shops and the kinds of things sold etc. Almost as they have not really figured out their way after the Soviet exit. There is definitely a natural beauty that can be appealing, but Georgia wins on the variety of that too.

    The income disparity is evident once you are in Yerevan. Yerevan, I thought, was a typical city, though obviously with its own cultural norms. We even visited their oldest mall – the Dalma Garden Mall. 🙂 I found the city a lot more structured than the winding charm of Tbilisi’s Old Town. The Soviet influence here, I felt, was a lot more than in Tbilisi. But that’s also because we didn’t spend time in that part of Tbilisi. Most people do just a day trip, but I think we spent the right amount of time in Armenia, which is 3 days.

  • Georgia : Kakheti, Uplistsikhe, Mtskheta, Kazbegi & more

    continued from Georgia : Tbilisi

    Beyond Tbilisi, we stayed in the Kakheti region, and went on day trips to Uplistsikhe, Mtskheta, and Gori, and another to Kazbegi and Ananuri, going right up to Stepantsminda, which is less than a dozen kilometres from the Russian border.

    Georgia is quite blessed by nature and its natural beauty and greenery is fantastic. This was on our way to Kakheti.

    Caucasus, Georgia

    Georgia has plenty of monasteries because this was one of the first countries to which Christianity spread. It was also the third country to become officially Christian. This is the older version of the Shuamta Monastery – Dzveli. Our driver-guide talked through the long drive on Georgia’s connection with Biblical mentions, and in general, the history, people, and culture of Georgia.

    Dzveli Shuamta's Monastery, Georgia

    Nearby is the Akhali Shuamta, made in the 16th century. These are extremely serene places, and even when crowded, folks are very aware of where they are, and do their best not to disturb others. You can also walk around the monastery grounds, some of which include forests.

    Akhali Shuamta, Georgia

    The Batonis Tsikhe, and Telavi’s version of the city walls. Telavi was also a quiet place, though I suspect people were waiting for the evening to start the celebrations, a version of the one that was happening in Tbilisi.

    Batonis Tsikhe, Telavi

    The grounds of the Batonis Tsikhe were also pleasant and devoid of visitors. So.much.peace. There was also a music college right outside.

    Batonis Tsikhe, Telavi

    The best part was the fantastic view of the Kakheti region. So clearly visible.

    Batonis Tsikhe, Telavi

    King Erekle II is quite a hero to the local populace, for uniting Georgia and trying to modernise it. To the extent our driver-guide named his son after him!

    Statue of King Erekle (Heraclius) II in Telavi, Georgia.

    The Giant Plane Tree in Telavi. Delivers exactly what it says. There is also a ‘family of snails’ installation near it, a metaphorical reference to time probably.

    Giant Plane Tree, Telavi

    Lunch in Telavi was at Kapiloni, and if you sit under those umbrellas, you get a good view.

    Kapiloni, Telavi

    We had wine…

    Kapiloni, Telavi

    … a delicious, flavourful Veal Chanakhi with local bread…

    Kapiloni, Telavi

    … and Khashlama – superbly boiled beef

    Kapiloni, Telavi

    Street art in Telavi as we wandered around

    Theotokos Church isn’t what we came to see, but hey…

    Theotokos Church in Telavi

    …it was very near to the old balconies

    Old Balcony, Telavi

    The Telavi market. Unless you like produce, nothing to see here 🙂

    Telavi Market

    Tsinandali Estate. D toured while I napped in the car!

    Tsinandali Estate, Telavi

    It was grapes season, so our guide even got us to pluck some randomly from someone’s garden! We could see trucks carrying loads to be made into wine.

    Kakheti, Georgia

    Kabadoni Boutique Hotel is where we stayed in Sighnaghi. They ‘missed’ telling us that the air conditioning was set to winter mode and so we ended up spending a warm night here! The breakfast and the coffee was good though.

    Kabadoni Boutique Hotel, Sighnaghi

    The World War II Memorial was right next door. Georgia lost practically half its population in the war.

    World War II Memorial Sighnaghi

    Sighnaghi has views to die for, and the hotel terrace was a perfect vantage point.

    Sighnaghi, Georgia

    The City Walls are a popular attraction. Some walking to do though.

    City Wall, Sighnaghi

    But if you do walk, you get some beautiful sights.

    City Wall, Sighnaghi

    No, we didn’t walk the entire 5 kilometres!

    City Wall, Sighnaghi

    Time for the sun and us to get down.

    City Wall, Sighnaghi

    Dinner was pretty boring though we finally tried the Beef Ostri. I suspect it was a poor version.

    Beef Ostri

    We walked around at around 8 and it was reasonably desolate. Sighnaghi is quite the village with just enough restaurant options. Since department stores sell all kinds of addiction – fast food, cigarettes, alcohol – that was where kids seemed to hang out most!

    Off the next morning, after one last look. From a fantastic vantage point on the way to Bodbe.

    Sighnaghi, Georgia

    Bodbe Monastery of Saint Nino. Started to get crowded even (relatively) early in the morning.

    Bodbe Monastery of Saint Nino, Georgia

    One way to look at it…

    Bodbe Monastery of Saint Nino, Georgia

    …and the other

    Bodbe Monastery of Saint Nino, Georgia

    The entire place is quite serene. The nuns maintain some very pretty gardens, grow their own vegetables, and even sell some of it.

    Bodbe Monastery of Saint Nino, Georgia

    The Wedding Palace that we saw while getting back into Tbilisi. From above, its plan has both erm, males and females, well represented. Like some churches that do it more subtly.

    Wedding Palace, Tbilisi

    Uplistsikhe, the city of caves.

    Uplistsikhe, Georgia

    The view was lovely.

    Uplistsikhe, Georgia

    Classism was around even then – larger caves for richer folks, more rooms, proximity to pharmacy, located higher etc.

    Uplistsikhe, Georgia

    There were even capsules dug into the ground as prison cells. You could just about stand, no space to sit/lie down, and guards peeing down on you!

    Uplistsikhe, Georgia

    Georgians take pride in the fact that they were the first in wine making – 6000 BCE! We had a wine tasting session within the caves. The one on the right is Khvanchkara, apparently Stalin’s favourite. Mildly sweet, and ugh.

    Uplistsikhe, Georgia

    Speaking of Stalin, we visited his hometown Gori (how apt), and the museum dedicated to him there.

    Stalin Museum, Gori

    He tried his best to do a bunch of things in photos and paintings. For one, keep his short height a ‘secret’, by standing only when others are seated/shorter than him, or remaining seated when taller folks are standing. He also had the remnants of a skin disease (that had killed his brother) on one side of his face, but he forbade photos of that. The museum also houses the one photo that does show it.

    Stalin Museum, Gori

    He dreaded flying, and went everywhere by train. This is his favourite coach. Has everything that a home-office needs.

    Stalin Museum, Gori

    Including a loo. A good time to bring up that a lot of Georgia’s revenue, I think, comes from charging to use the loo. This time we paid to see the loo.

    Stalin Museum, Gori

    The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta. This place was the original capital of Georgia.

    Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta, Georgia

    A different kind of cross.

    Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta, Georgia

    Churchkela, which Georgians usually make in autumn when the primary ingredients, grapes and nuts, are harvested. Made with that and flour. Lasts long, is filling, and easy to carry. Made first for soldiers, apparently.

    Churchkhela

    Jvari Monastery, one of the oldest churches around.

    Jvari Monastery, Georgia

    Straight out of LOTR.

    Jvari Monastery, Georgia

    The Zhinvali Water Reservoir view point. The colour of that water!

    Zhinvali Water Reservoir, Georgia

    Climb a bit at the Ananuri Fortress Complex…

    Ananuri Fortress Complex, Georgia

    …and you get a great view.

    Ananuri Fortress Complex, Georgia

    You could also walk to the bridge nearby.

    Ananuri Fortress Complex, Georgia

    If you look closely, you can see the White Aragvi and Black Aragvi rivers trying to mix.

    White Aragvi, Black Aragvi, Georgia

    The Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument.

    Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument

    But really, it’s the views here that is the thing to see.

    Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument

    360 degrees of astounding panorama.

    Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument

    The Gergeti Trinity Church in Stepantsminda is quite the climb.

    Gergeti Trinity Church, Stepantsminda, Georgia

    But you do get to see Mount Kazbegi in all its splendour.

    Mount Kazbegi, Georgia

    If you like nature, the feel of Old Towns in Europe, are experimental with food, and especially if you’re fond of wine, Georgia needs to be on your list. It has a bit of everything, is easily accessible and there are enough day tours for you to get a good feel of the place.

    And when you’re ready to plan, this is the best guide to the country that I have seen.

  • Georgia : Tbilisi

    We had put this off a while back because we had heard horror stories of people being sent back despite having an evisa. After that fear passed, we were saving this for a time when we didn’t want to go all the way to Europe, but still wanted the feel of it. The border of Asia and Europe seemed perfect, and we clubbed it with Armenia for a 10 day trip. Where we stayed, what we did, where and what we ate, all below.

    Fun fact to start: Georgians call their country Sakartvelo, and there are many stories on why it’s called Georgia now.

    Stay

    We had split our Georgia stay into three – Tbilisi, Kakheti and then Tbilisi again. In Round 1, we stayed at Tiflis Palace in Old Town. It reminded me of what the Metropol Hotel in A Gentleman in Moscow might have been. We did see an actual Metropol in Yerevan, Armenia! The rooms were old but comfortable, but…

    Tiflis Palace, Tbilsi, Georgia

    … the killer feature was the view. D had asked for a room with a view, and they gave us one that had a 180+ view that was just fantastic. Narikala Fort (which was closed for renovations) and the Metekhi Church were all visible. Just sitting there was therapeutic.

    Tiflis Palace, Tbilsi, Georgia

    We felt the same way the morning after too. Now if only the managerial staff would learn a bit from the housekeeping folk and improve their service levels, this would be an ideal hotel.

    Tiflis Palace, Tbilsi, Georgia

    In Round 2, we stayed at the Mercure Old Town, which was just 200m from Tiflis Palace. It didn’t have the Tiflis view or the room size, but our agenda was mostly day trips and this room was just the right size. Also, excellent service, and a superb breakfast.

    Mercure Old Town, Tbilisi, Georgia

    See/Do

    We visited Meidan Bazar the evening we arrived, because it was anyway close to Tiflis. Your souvenir needs, including wine and food, will most likely be solved here. Having said that, do spend some time outside, specifically the shops in the streets close to this. Especially if would like some good magnets. 😀

    Meidan Bazar, Tbilisi, Georgia

    Old Tbilisi Balconies are a thing, and you will see them a lot in the Old Town area. We even caught some in Telavi.

    Old Tbilisi Balconies

    Queen Darejan’s Palace is a larger structure, but this was a pretty part of it

    Tbilisi, Georgia

    For our first full day, we had booked a guided walking tour. I’d recommend this if you don’t mind walking four hours because it gives you a good idea of Old Tbilisi, and covers a bunch of interesting places. The Metekhi Virgin Mary Assumption Church was the first stop. In the same compound is the statue of Vakhtang I Gorgasali, who laid the foundation of Tbilisi as the new capital. Interesting stories on how he decided on the place, and why he named it so. Our guide called him the High Five king thanks to his upraised hand. 😀

    Metekhi Virgin Mary Assumption Church, Tbilisi, Georgia

    We were also taken on a cable car to get a fantastic view and an up close encounter with the Mother of Georgia monument. A set of interesting stories about her too.

    Cable Car, Mother of Georgia, Tbilisi

    The Bridge of Peace is a popular tourist spot, but the locals aren’t fans. In fact, its design has been heavily criticised and has a nickname “Always Ultra” for its supposed resemblance to a ladies’ maxi-pad. 😀

    Bridge of Peace, Tbilisi, Georgia

    The Clock Tower in Tbilisi is fun. It is next to the marionette theatre, and every hour an angel comes out to ring the bell with a small hammer. There is also a small mechanical puppet theatre inside the tower and you can see the show at noon and at 7pm. We unfortunately couldn’t find time for the shows.

    The Clock Tower, Tbilisi

    The tamada is a Georgian toastmaster at feasts and is supposed to connect the past, present and future. We saw at least a couple in Tbilisi and one in Sighnaghi too.

    Tamada (Toastmaster) Statue Tbilisi

    The Sulphur baths and the Juma mosque are in Abanotubani, right next to Tiflis. The smell will lead you there. And yes, you have spas here, though we weren’t too keen.

    Sulphur Baths, Abanotubani, Tbilisi

    After the tour, a few drinks at a winery as part of the tour, we had lunch and then walked to Liberty Square. This is also the area where you’ll find the mall. But though we did visit that, our destination was the metro.

    Liberty Square, Tbilisi, Georgia

    One of the reasons I was excited about Georgia is because it was a part of the USSR and there are tons of artefacts around. Buildings are obviously one, but the metro is what I was looking forward to. It was the fourth metro system in the former Soviet Union, and started operations in January, 1966. After the steepest escalator ride I have been on, we caught the metro from Liberty Square to Rustaveli.

    Tbilisi Metro

    We dropped by at Gabashvili House (Blue House), but could only manage a side shot of its Old Balcony.

    Gabashvili. House (Blue House)

    The final destination on the first day was the Funicular ride to Mtatsminda. There is an amusement park there but we were only interested in the view. It was definitely the most expansive, but we preferred our Tiflis view.

    Funicular to Mtatsminda

    The area around Meidan Bazar is quite buzzy late in the evening. There are, as is now usual, many Indian folks trying to get you to an Indian restaurant. We overheard one woman specifically asking for khichdi for the kid and the restaurant guy saying ‘sab kuch milega‘. Oh well.

    Old Town, Tbilisi

    When we got back from our Sighnaghi trip, it was the weekend when Tbilisi was celebrating its birthday. That meant that there were food stalls, music and trinkets all around. It’s a great time to walk around, because vehicles are not allowed on many roads, though it does get crowded. It was amazing how well and fast they were able to clean the place following the weekend festivities.

    Old Town, Tbilisi

    After walking around the stalls a bit, we decided to take a long walk before dinner. Away from the crowds, around the Gomi Street area. There are a couple of view points here but we were too lazy to climb the stairs. The roads were steep enough!

    Old Town, Tbilisi

    The Namaste Hotel was super cute!

    Old Town, Tbilisi

    See 360, where we had planned dinner.

    See 360, Old Town, Tbilisi

    This was around Gudiashvili Square, and probably the time we enjoyed most. There is a park and we could hear the live music. We sat down for a bit, moved on to check a couple of craft beer places for the next few days (they were tiny and we skipped) and then came back to spend more time at the park. There were kids having a picnic, dogs who didn’t bother us, a pleasant breeze and in general, a long sigh atmosphere.

    Old Town, Tbilisi

    Chronicles of Georgia is away from the city, and after a fun exchange with the driver who promised he would arrive despite the various traffic snarls, we got to see a fabulous structure that literally chronicles the story of Georgia. And what a view of the city.

    Chronicles of Georgia

    Eat

    As part of our walking tour, we also visited a traditional bakery. In addition to a cheese pie and another with vanilla inside, we also tried the Lemonade Natakhtari, and D had a tarragon version of it. Loved everything!

    Bakery, Old Town, Tbilisi

    Our first dinner was at Khinkali Pub and is the one we enjoyed most. In addition to the Khinkali, we tried the Adjaruli Khachapuri (there are other types too) and in both cases, there are specific ways to eat them. D had already researched the first and a restaurant staff taught us the second. D started out on wine, while I tried the residue – Chacha. It’s not arrack though it is really strong. It’s a clear version of brandy made from the leftover grape residue after winemaking. This is easily the best place for your first meal – great vibe, friendly staff, and excellent food.

    Khinkali Pub, Old Town, Tbilisi

    Restaurant Pasanauri is on the main road, and we went there after our half day walking tour because we were too tired to seek out other places. I tried the oak Chacha (closer to the brandy colour and aged in oak casks) while D continued the wine journey. We also tried the Chicken Shkmeruli – chicken fried and then slowly simmered in a rich garlic and milk sauce. Not our favourite. Pasanauri has a few grumpy people who also happen to be quite racist.

    Restaurant Pasanauri, Old Town, Tbilisi

    Our tour guide suggested 2 Tona when I mentioned an interest in craft beer, and that was a hit. Their Skybread (Hefeweizen) and Gustav (Munich Helles) were both smooth and splendid and though we didn’t care much for the pork barbecue and the beef stew chashushuli, the beer more than made up for it.

    2 Tona, Tbilisi

    Fresh fruits. A great thing to munch when you’re walking around.

    Old Town, Tbilisi

    Next to the Khinkali Pub is Restaurant Hide. They almost share a menu. The vibe is different, but the service staff were friendly here too. We finally had Kompot – a good break from alcohol. We tried the Kharcho soup and an Ojakhuri (literally ‘family meal’) and enjoyed both.

    Restaurant Hide, Old Town, Tbilisi

    See 360 was one of the costlier places we dined at. We hadn’t reserved so couldn’t get a table on the terrace. Indoors wasn’t too bad though. I tried the Karva beer, and it wasn’t the best I’ve had. The pork barbecue was just fine, and we really didn’t like the Chakapuli (a stew of sorts). The dessert though was quite interesting, it’s their special.

    See 360, Old Town, Tbilisi

    After we got back from the Chronicles of Georgia, we really were too tired to walk around. Shemomechama was nearby, and we had the place all to ourselves. The staff, as per the internet, were supposed to be friendly, but they were just cordial. We had the Badri-Jani (aubergine with a walnut paste), which even my carnivorous taste buds liked and the Chebu (seemed like huge fried momos). The cognac was smooth.

    Shemomechama, Old Town, Tbilisi

    Our last meal in Georgia was at Tiflis Veranda. The meal wasn’t Georgian, but tasty enough.

    Tiflis Veranda, Old Town, Tbilisi

    That was a bonus because what we went for was the view. 🙂

    Tiflis Veranda

    I really liked Tbilisi. It had interesting places and things to see from a cultural perspective, unique food, great wine and cognac, and a lot of friendly folks.

    Next up: Georgia outside Tbilisi

  • Status & Culture: How Our Desire for Social Rank Creates Taste, Identity, Art, Fashion, and Constant Change

    W. David Marx

    I love it when a book matches the expectations set by the cover. In this case, a very intriguing “how our desire for social rank creates taste, identity, art, fashion, and constant change”. As GenX , and a marketer, I have often tried to make sense of the changing nature of culture courtesy the effects of the internet. This book is extremely insightful as it navigates what culture is, how it gets fashioned, and then, how it has changed in the last couple of decades.

    The premise is that beyond functionality and pleasures, most things we do is for status-seeking. And this sparks creativity, which in turn, creates culture. David Marx uses a bunch of sciences, including anthropology, neuroscience, economics, philosophy and meshes them with art history, and media studies to answer why things become popular, why that changes over time, and how it shapes our identity and our behaviour.

    The book is divided into four parts, beginning with understanding status, conventions, signalling, and how this relates to taste, authenticity and identity. It then delves into classes and sensibilities, subcultures and countercultures, how status-seeking feeds creativity, and fuels culture, and its changes. Further, it uses fashion cycles as a means to understand how cultural changes happen, and the role of mass media in it. This section also studies the part that history plays in shaping culture, and how frequent blasts of ‘retro’ are inevitable. All of this puts us in a great place to understand what the internet age has done to culture, and some direction on what is ahead.

    I found the book engaging and accessible, and very useful in understanding my own behaviour and ‘tastes’, as well as that of people I know, and society at large. Highly recommended.

    Notes
    1. The Beatles mop top haircut’s origin story is Stu Sutcliffe’s (the original bass guitarist of the Beatles) German girlfriend trying to imitate the French mode, which was becoming popular among the local art boys. After their reluctant conversion, it became their signature, and a global trend!
    2. Status denotes a specific position in the social hierarchy. Every status comes with specific rights and duties, the most desirable benefits coming to those at the top (more attention and rewards, deference, access to scarce resources, dominance – make others do things against their wishes). Status is bestowed by others, it is social. Status is contextual – local, global. And it is zero-sum, when one gains, someone else has to lose.
    3. Achievements get embodied in particular forms of capital – political, educational, economic, social. This capital determines our memberships in different groups.
    4. Different status levels have different conventions. At first conventions of social interactions regulate behaviour at a conscious level, then we internalise them and they become habits. And then they set our perceptual framework for observing the world, and our expectations. Our sense of meaning and order. Lifestyle is thus a requirement of social rank and an expression of it.
    5. Just as we internalise conventions, status value acts on our brains at a subconscious level. Conventions with high status value appear to us as beautiful, and vice versa. But we attribute this liking to other things like practicality, cost, sentimental value or just personal preferences. (vacations)
    6. The moral duty of self actualisation is a status duty – individuals at the top of the hierarchy must pursue unique behaviours and distinctive choices.
    7. Status symbols are a signal that allow a quick reading of and by others. But they offer alibis (quality, aesthetic features etc) so it is not just a symbol.
    8. There are five signalling costs – money, time (PhD), exclusive access, cultural capital (knowledge of conventions by spending time among high status), norm breaking
    9. Taste, as reflected by multiple signals, is how status appraisals happen. To have good taste means making better choices than others.
    10. Lifestyle choices must reveal congruence – an internal consistency with the target sensibility. Deep knowledge opens the door to better taste, and congruence reveals our commitment to high status sensibility. The highest status people make distinctive choices through bounded originality.
    11. In signalling, we build personas – observable packages of signals, taste, sensibility, immutable characters and cues absorbed from our upbringing and background. Others use this persona to determine our identity. And we have a ‘self’, known only to us.
    12. Our ‘cultural DNA’ = hidden elements, immutable characters and cues, conventions for normal status, emulations (of higher status) and individual distinctions
    13. iPod won as a status symbol, though Microsoft Zune had better features
    14. Old Money taste focuses on patina, visual proof of age in their possessions (vintage) They uses this as an advantage over New Money.
    15. The professional class (70s onward) built a balance of economic, social and cultural capital. Impressing old money and embarrassing new money’s ‘loud’ tastes
    16. New Money’s use of economic capital in signalling spurs the creation of expensive luxury goods – sports cars, summer homes, designer clothes etc. Old Money’s countersignalling and focus on patina and cultural capital get companies to make classic, modest goods with functional appeal. The professional class’s signalling through information creates a market for middlebrow/consumer media guides, functional goods, artisanal goods, and copies of Old Money lifestyles. Underprivileged individuals’ desire to be part of culture outdo peers pushes companies to offer kitsch and flashy entry-level consumer goods.
    17. Immanuel Kant a sorted 3 authoritative criteria for artistic genius – the creation of fiercely original works, which over time become imitated as exemplars, and are created through mysterious and seemingly inimitable methods.
    18. Individuals make adoption decisions within the framework of human interaction. They consider how when and from whom they receive information, how they view uncertainty about switching and how they will be judged in the community for making the switch This creates five distinct groups, innovators, early adopters, early majority, let majority and laggards. The diffusion process – high status adoption of new convention for distinction, early adopters’ embrace of that convention as emulation of their status superiors, early majority reinvention and simplification to follow an emerging social norm, late majority imitation to avoid losing normal status , laggards’ passive adoption without intention
    19. Elite flock to three particular categories of items that fulfil their needs. Rarities, novelties and technology innovations.
    20. Four related phenomena, in the internet age – the explosion of content, the clash of maximalist and minimalist sensibilities accompanying the rising global wealth, the rejection of taste as a legitimate means of distinction, the over evaluation of the past in Gen X’s retromania and the abandoning of the past in Gen Z’s Neomania.
    21. “You can’t just walk around and be visible on the internet for anyone to see you. You have to act and the main purpose of this communication is to make yourself look good.” Social media also enables us to quantify our status like never before in like retreats comments and followers.
    22. Before the internet, elites could protect their status symbols behind information barriers and exclusive access to products. The internet broke that.
    23. Another elite group has stepped in to countersignal gauche extravagance, the professional class tech billionaires who are forming their own taste culture. They created wealth without shedding their professional class habitus. Skeptic of glamour and respect for thoughtful thrift, they make their choices based on functional rationales rather than the open pursuit of status symbols.
    24. Omnivorism (consume and like everything) has had major effects on culture over the last few decades. In the past taste worked as a decision classifier by drawing clear lines between social groups. Omnivorism drains this power by declaring nearly everything suitable for consumption.
    25. Collectively reaching the stage of meta knowledge we come to understand the arbitrariness of our own preferences taste and culture. The proclaimed superiority of preferred styles over others is accordingly and arrogant and bigoted act.
    26. Omnivore tastes then can be used to dismantle the status structures that prevent the equitable distribution of respect. In a world of celebrity wealth-gospel, and millennial financial anxiety, young entertainers face little backlash for aggressively courting likes, subscribers and advertisers. Follower counts and gross earning appear to be the only relevant sign of cultural import.
    27. Youth find ‘self expression by enlisting in a global army (e.g. BTS)
    28. Hysteresis – the lingering values of a previous age continuing to guide our judgments

    Status & Culture
  • Hokkaido Japanese & Korean Restaurant

    Just as the restaurant itself is hidden in Indiranagar, Korean too is hidden in the menu. Actually, it doesn’t exist. There’s only Japanese. Now that I got that off my chest, we got there on a Sunday afternoon and had the place all to ourselves. It’s functional in terms of seating but made quite lively with the use of lighting and the art.

    Hokkaido, Indiranagar

    D, I have realised will have Miso if there is Miso, so we ended up with a delicious Miso Shiru that set the appetite well for the Stir Fried Beef, which had great texture and just the right amount of spice for us.

    We first met Tamagoyaki at the Tsukiji Outer Market in Tokyo and I have been a fan since. This one didn’t really reach that level, but was definitely not bad.

    Hokkaido, Indiranagar

    We debated mains a lot and finally agreed on Gyu Niku Udon – udon topped with beef (again). On hindsight, we should have chosen something else because it was a bit similar to the soup. But we enjoyed it nevertheless.

    Hokkaido, Indiranagar

    We were a bit disappointed since we wanted Korean, but Japanese is a good second. The service is prompt and very helpful. We were left lighter by about Rs.1800. Overall, not a bad outing if you’re craving Japanese.

    Hokkaido Japanese & Korean Restaurant, 10/1-1, 1st Floor, 7th Main, 1st Cross, Appareddypalya, Indiranagar