Krakow

Poland is what is called ‘Bloodlands’, the part of Europe caught between Hitler and Stalin. History. That, and it had been a while since we had a proper wintery Christmas, and seen Christmas markets.

Our first stop was Krakow because a day trip from there was reason #1 for our visit to this part of the world. But before that, I finally found out the reason for my Eastern Europe fixation, thanks to Anna Funder’s Stasiland.  She calls it horror-romance.

The romance comes from the dream of a better world the German Communists wanted to build out of the ashes of their Nazi past: from each according to his abilities, to each according to his needs. The horror comes from what they did in its name.

Except for a two-hour delay in our return flight, which we spent parked in a Munich runway as snow fell around us, it all worked out very well!

Where to stay in Krakow

Radisson Blu has a fantastic location – a 2 min walk from the nearest tram station, and a 5-10 minute walk to the Main Market Square. And they were kind enough to give us a room with a fabulous view that was especially lovely after sunset. This was easily our best stay during the trip.

What to see/do in Krakow

The first stop – the Main Market Square in Old Town. That’s the St.Mary’s Cathedral. Asymmetrical because two brothers built one side each. What started out as a friendly competition moved to jealousy. One killed the other, and then committed suicide. Welcome to Poland, where they don’t like stories that end well.

This one is intricate, beautiful and silent. Exactly the way cathedrals should be.

The Bazylika Franciszkanów (Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi) is another stylish, graceful place to visit.

We took a walking tour that began near the City Walls. This is from that area between St. Florian’s Gate and the Barbican.

The Town Hall tower, around which you can see the Christmas market.

The Wawel Castle, inside which we roamed a bit as part of the tour.

And then visited the fire-breathing dragon with at least two legend stories – one, as usual, of one prince killing his brother after collectively killing the dragon, and then getting banished, and the other, of a shoemaker winning the hand of a princess. The only happy story I think we heard from this part of the world.

Speaking of which, the primary reason for visiting Poland – Auschwitz. That peaceful photo shows what was once the Nazi administrative headquarters and a prison camp for political prisoners.

The infamous “Arbeit Macht Frei” (Work Makes You Free) sign

The buildings now house museums and artifacts from that odious era

Just one kind of artefact – shoes. It is difficult to understand the scale and volume from the image. Bags, assistive devices, daily use objects, all remnants of lives.

“We really had nothing now except our bare bodies–even minus hair; all we possessed, literally, was our naked existence” ~ Viktor Frankl

The soldiers’ barracks. Kept as is, and thus the photo.

Birkenau, or Auschwitz II-Birkenau, the primary extermination camp and a vast concentration centre, built for the large numbers who were brought here by Holocaust trains. 

The bunks – 6 people to each level. Probably the least worst part of the inhuman conditions.

Alright, change of scene. The Wieliczka Salt Mine. This was the second half of the day we visited Auschwitz-Birkenau. You can get a tour covering both.

The tourist part of Wieliczka Salt Mine is 800 steps going down to about 135 m.

But it’s fascinating. Museum, art, cafe, horses! (earlier, not now) – all this deep down. Fascinating.

Guess the artist? Krakow has a fantastic Banksy museum. I was all starry eyed.

Hangin’ there. Khee khee.

There are very few who can use humour as a weapon as potently as Banksy.

Where to eat, and what

Restauracja Smakołyki was our first meal in Poland. A short walk from our hotel, and we were lucky to find a place reasonably quickly. Among our top 3 meals during the trip. An absolute must-visit.

They already got me with the quality of the non-alcoholic beer. This is Czech but the Poles are very self aware and themselves claim to like that over their own!

Our first taste of Bigos (aka Hunter’s Stew) – chopped meat stewed with sauerkraut, one of the better versions we ended up having.

Pierogi – the momo’s Polish doppelganger because the dough and filling are both different.

The excellent lunch was followed by quite a meh experience thanks to a food & drinks tour. Maybe it was an expectation mismatch. But for instance, the 3 hr tour was just over 2 hours. The places we went to didn’t inspire confidence because we were usually the only ones there (except the one above) and this, on a Sunday night. My overall perception was that the host was sleepwalking through the thing.

Anyhoo, we began in the Kazimierz (Jewish quarter) with a representation of what locals ate. Kanapki (open faced sandwich) with smalec (garlic pork spread),  śledź (pickled herring), bigos, Ogórki Kiszone (pickled cucumber)

And then moved right next door to a Pijana Wiśnia outlet.

I can’t complain about the cherry + sugar + vodka combo.

To be fair, we probably wouldn’t have found this place let alone get in here…

…but it was groovy, and we had four flavours of vodka. 50% worked but that’s not anyone’s fault.

The next stop was a quite visible brand in the Main Market square area.

…and that’s where we had our only taste of zapiekanka (Polish for pizza)

I think it was after the Budapest version of the food tour that I got an idea on why this din’t work for us – structure. And probably that the host seemed more interested in drinking and talking about himself!

Thankfully, dinner luck got back courtesy Pod Aniołami.

The decor was gorgeous and this wasn’t even inside the restaurant, it was the corridor to the entrance.

Well, it was a longish corridor. But the decor inside was just fantastic. It could give a museum a run for its money!I have a few shots of the interior but they all have other people in them. 😐

We tried the Festal broth first, which as per the menu was cooked with gold coins according to tradition (Compendium Ferculorum – first Polish cook book from 1682) to indulge whim and for health (I like that combo). Chicken leg, served with vegetables and angel hair pasta.
I think this was slow cooked because it showed in the texture of the chicken and the high quality of the broth. Hearty fare.

Next up was “Anielska Maczanka”- deer stewed in red wine served with rye bread. The dish itself was outstanding but I loved the storytelling too – this one was apparently a favourite of Jan Kaczara, a cabman, who frequently spoke in verse!

Food luck continued in Pod Baranem. Another place which oozes character. D got herself a good cider.

We finally tried a Red borscht with a meat croquette. I am not a fan of beetroot but surprisingly loved the soup!

I tried a Wild mushroom cream soup served in bread, and even though it was all vegetarian, absolutely enjoyed it.

Our last meal in Krakow continued the good times – W Starej Kuchni

…where we got a wonderful window seat without even having to ask for it!

As the name would suggest, made in Krakow, very good, and alcohol-free!

They have this excellent idea of soup samplers, so maybe this should be your first port of call. We had tried everything except the one with the mashed potato.

But more wonderful still, they have a Nalewka sampler too! That’s aged liqueur or tincture made with fruits. We only tried it because it is perceived to have medicinal benefits. Yeah, right.

I got myself crispy potato pancakes with beef goulash, grated cheese and pickled cucumbers. Great in taste and texture.

D enjoyed her roasted chicken roulade with spinach and blue cheese filling in herb and cream sauce with mashed potatoes.

Tip: Make reservations before you go. You don’t have to stand in queues, and it reduces chances of racism, which unfortunately continues to exist.

Krakow provides a good start to Poland in terms of food and culture. In any case, if Auschwitz-Birkenau or the salt mines are in your radar, this is your best base. Up next – Wrocław.