Armenia

From Tbilisi to Yerevan via…

I think this was the first time we crossed a border by road. On a relative scale, the two rounds of checks – one out of Georgia and the other into Armenia – did not take too long. The Armenian security was a little concerned about our alcohol content into the country, but her colleague let us pass saying ‘tourists’. 😀 I forgot the thumb rule of not putting more than one large bottle in a suitcase.

Soon as you cross the border, there is a point at which you can see Azerbaijan literally on the other side of a fence!

The journey itself takes around 5 hours, but we had stops. We started at 9.30 and reached Yerevan around 6. On the way…

The Ijevan Wine-Brandy Factory was part of the tour. It is named after the town. The town’s current name Ijevan, and its name (until 1919) Karavansara, both mean “inn”.

Ijevan, Armenia

During the tasting, D had a bit of vodka and some wine. For a change, I consumed less, but wonderful cognac! The smell in those storage rooms. Sigh.

Ijevan, Armenia

Lake Parz, part of the Dilijan National Park, was our next stop. Armenian Ooty/Nainital but a little more peaceful, and the same family crowd. More than the lake itself, it’s the path to it that’s mesmerising. As per our driver, that stretch is an Insta reel hit in Armenia 🙂

Lake Parz, Armenia

But what I found to be the cold, Nordic levels of beauty (which I prefer) was Lake Sevan. The crowds were at the monastery, so there were very few people around.

Lake Sevan, Armenia

Ethereal.

Lake Sevan, Armenia

The Sevanavank Monastery is a bit of a climb. 🙂 But the views are out of this world.

Sevanavank Monastery, Armenia

This doesn’t capture the half of it.

Sevanavank Monastery, Armenia

We passed a place named Gagarin, founded in 1955, and named after the cosmonaut.

Yerevan

The Rooftop ApartHotel was where we stayed. The room per se was fine. Breakfast is served in the room, we didn’t enjoy that much.

Rooftop ApartHotel, Yerevan

The views though were amazing. By day…

Rooftop ApartHotel, Yerevan

…and by night.

Rooftop ApartHotel, Yerevan

We walked around in the evening, and saw the Moscow Cinema

Moscow Cinema, Yerevan

Swan Lake, which is a great place to just sit and watch people.

Swan Lake, Yerevan

It was too dark to see the St. Astvatsatsin Kathoghike Church that day, so we dropped by the next evening, after the day tour.

St. Astvatsatsin Kathoghike Church, Yerevan

The last day of the vacation was spent walking around Yerevan on our own. Ok, a bit of GG taxi too.

The Republic Square is quite a hub of activity.

Republic Square, Yerevan

The History Museum of Armenia is right there.

History Museum of Armenia, Yerevan

But our destination, again, was the metro.

Yerevan Metro

Almost like a toy train. And a guard forbade me from taking pictures. So much KGB feels :p

Yerevan Metro

Saint Gregory The Illuminator Cathedral is quite a different architectural style.

Saint Gregory The Illuminator Cathedral, Yerevan

It’s a short walk to the Vernissage, in case you want to buy souvenirs.

Vernissage Market, Yerevan

After lunch and a nap, we took a cab to the Mother Armenia Monument.

Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

It offers a great view of the city.

Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

..and has displays of weaponry!

Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

Missiles in a car park!

Mother Armenia Monument, Yerevan

We then took a cab back to the Cascade Complex.

Cascade Complex, Yerevan

And if you are ok with a climb, you can sit in peace for a lovely snapshot of the city.

Cascade Complex, Yerevan

The sun was only mildly cooperative

Cascade Complex, Yerevan

But we make do with what we have

The Complex is beautiful after sunset

Cascade Complex, Yerevan

Out of Yerevan

On our second day in Armenia, we went on a day trip to a few places just outside Yerevan.

Charent’s Arch was the first stop. It gives a feel of Mount Ararat being suspended in air. Very crowded!

Charent's Arch, Armenia

The next stop was The Monastery of Geghard, which was, as is usually the case when we visit, being renovated!

The Monastery of Geghard, Armenia

At least the view was pretty.

The Monastery of Geghard, Armenia

Garni Temple was next. Special because it is the only standing Greco-Roman colonnaded building in Armenia

Garni Temple, Armenia

Again, lovely views as you walk around.

Garni Temple, Armenia

The Symphony of Stones was D’s special addition to the plan. This natural monument is supposedly the result of the collapse of the volcanic rocks.

Symphony of Stones, Armenia

Symmetric hexagon and pentagon basalt columns, practically hanging out.

Symphony of Stones, Armenia

The Azat Reservoir viewpoint had no one around save a dog. Breathtaking.

Azat Reservoir, Armenia

Khor Virap was the last stop, and we attended a wedding there. 🙂

Khor Virap, Armenia

Our first meal in Armenia, after a lunch at a food court on the way, was dinner at the Beer Academy Ethnograph. Decent beer.

Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

..and good pork.

Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

Craving flavours, we went for the Fajitas next, which was excellent.

Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

D tried and loved the pomegranate wine. I loved the bottling.

Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

And I tried a hot and sweet Dunkel, which wasn’t as bad as I expected. 😀

Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan

Lavash had been our first choice on the first evening, but they said they don’t have a table, though we offered to wait. Mildly racist vibes. We anyway booked a table for the next evening.

Lavash, Yerevan

Mulled wine for D. And I tried the Ararat brandy.

Lavash, Yerevan

Tolma with grape leaves. Beef, rice, spices, matzoon (yogurt) inside. Must try.

Lavash, Yerevan

Khurjin. Break the dough on top to get to the lamb and vegetables. Super stuff.

Lavash, Yerevan

Guinness Record Gata for dessert.

Lavash, Yerevan

As you sit on the balcony watching the skyline at night, though I wouldn’t recommend either, unless you’re a Kingfisher fan.

Armenia

Sherep wasn’t our first choice, but it was located conveniently and had a good rep. And if you ignore the racist vibes, you’ll be fine. We spent two hours there, mostly thanks to an overall lethargy among the staff to serve our table.

Sherep, Yerevan

Solyanka, of Russian origin, to begin with

Sherep, Yerevan

Ishli Kyufta (beef)

Sherep, Yerevan

Compote is really a comfort when you don’t want alcohol

Sherep, Yerevan

Ossobuco (veal) with risotto

Sherep, Yerevan

Broken Flower pot for a sweet ending.

Sherep, Yerevan

Dinner on the final night of our vacation at Tavern Yerevan. This was recommended by our driver to be a place where one could get real Armenian food, and not the touristy versions. This was priced below the others. A good time to note how the prices at the places above are almost 10x that of a food court!

Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

When there is compote, it was now a no-brainer.

Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

D went around to see how lavash was made. 🙂

Pizza was almost homemade, and delicious.

Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

A beef dish the sauce of which D was slurping, feat. Lavash.

Tavern Yerevan, Teryan St, Yerevan

Rubicone Gelato had brandy ice cream!

Rubicone Gelato, Yerevan

In a lovely setting.

Rubicone Gelato, Yerevan

And thus we got a sweet end to the trip!

Rubicone Gelato, Yerevan

Compared to Georgia, I felt that the non-Yerevan part of Armenia was poorer – clothes, vehicles, the crowd, the shops and the kinds of things sold etc. Almost as they have not really figured out their way after the Soviet exit. There is definitely a natural beauty that can be appealing, but Georgia wins on the variety of that too.

The income disparity is evident once you are in Yerevan. Yerevan, I thought, was a typical city, though obviously with its own cultural norms. We even visited their oldest mall – the Dalma Garden Mall. 🙂 I found the city a lot more structured than the winding charm of Tbilisi’s Old Town. The Soviet influence here, I felt, was a lot more than in Tbilisi. But that’s also because we didn’t spend time in that part of Tbilisi. Most people do just a day trip, but I think we spent the right amount of time in Armenia, which is 3 days.

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