I think we have vicariously traveled and lived in Kyoto thanks to Pico Iyer. Primarily The Lady and the Monk: Four Seasons in Kyoto, but also some mentions in other books, interviews and podcasts. Kyoto has a character that is quite different from Tokyo. It is less hurried and quite laid-back, but I also felt that it tried to keep visitors at an arm’s distance. Tokyo almost didn’t care. Ironically, I observed more foreigners in Kyoto than in Tokyo. Until we figured out the spots, Kyoto’s dinner scene reminded me of Ireland – after 8PM, only drinks and bar bites! But most importantly, Kyoto is definitely prettier.
Meet the Romance Car (Romansukā) – Odakyu Electric Railway’s limited express luxury tourist services south-west of Tokyo, to mountain resorts such as Hakone and Gotemba (Mount Fuji), and beaches such as Odawara and Enoshima. It began in 1957, and was the inspiration for the Shinkansen. We saw this in Hakone while waiting for the Hikari 653 Shinkansen that would take us to Kyoto.
For moving around in Kyoto, unless your stay is going to be a week or more, the Suica works absolutely fine. We used it in buses and the subway. Of course, the Kansai Pass might get you free entry in a few places, but we felt the effort of getting it wasn’t worth the advantages. Do your own math though.
Stay
Based on our overall plan, and availability, we chose to stay in a ryokan for a night in Kyoto. The ryokan is a type of traditional Japanese inn that typically features tatami-matted rooms, and has onsens. Given the supply-demand equation, they are usually pricey. We stayed at the Gion Kyoka and the room was fabulous. They somehow managed to balance the traditional style and even materials used with the modern day creature comforts. I know how it looks, but Hotel Wing International Premium Kyoto Sanjo was probably our favourite stay. Smart staff, larger room, decent food, great service, and superb location.
See/Do
The Gion area, even at 9AM on a weekday is like this. But it does come to life in the evenings. The buildings are all old school and preserved, and thus a visual treat. Behind the buildings on the left is Ponto-chō. Another place that comes alive in the evenings and is known for geisha appearances and, traditional tea houses. Not to mention nightspots! While we sat drinking, we spotted a geisha outside. That’s the closest we got.Kinkaku-ji, literally “Temple of the Golden Pavilion”, and officially named Rokuon-ji (Deer Garden Temple”), is a Zen Buddhist temple.One of our favourite spots – Nishiki Market. It is massive with many different sections, and covers everything from food to fashion. It is all hustle and bustle until in the evening, and then gets silent. The latter time is also a good way to walk around 🙂The Higashi Hongan-ji (the Eastern Monastery of the Original Vow) was very close to our hotel and looked great, but given the long list, we didn’t step in. Founded in 778, Kiyomizu-dera is easy to fall in love with, especially if you go around the sunset. Entry closes at 6, but you are allowed to exit later. Like I said…The Philosopher’s Walk is a lovely cherry-blossom-filled walk by the canal between Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji, especially early in the day. It was first opened in 1890 and is named so because two 20th-century Japanese philosophers Nishida Kitaro and Hajime Tanabe are thought to have used it for daily exercise.Fushima Inari was rainy and crowded when we visited. We chose to skip the long 2-3 hour trek up and down the mountain. Outside the temple, you can find some nice desserts for being good kids! Kōdai-ji has an entry fee but is a peaceful walk with some exquisite buildings and gardens.Yasaka Shrine is right at Gion, so you can make a quick visit if you’re staying in the area.Gion Corner, where there is a tourist cultural show at 6 and 7 in the evening. We didn’t book online in advance, but managed to get tickets for the latter. Also the venue for some good old-fashioned racism from visitors from the west. Given our countrymen’s penchant for jumping queues, I can’t really blame them. The show runs for an hour and gives you snippets of six art forms – tea ceremony to flower arrangement to Bunraku puppet theatre. At 5000 yen pp, strictly for those culturally inclined. Every turn in Gion produces a picture postcard. Tokyo Tower at sunset is another excellent time and place to be. Gion is all business in the mornings……but dresses up at night.
Eat/Drink
The second of the beer triumvirate – Sapporo, which we managed to try at Pontocho Sakaba, one of the few affordable places open late at night in that area. Part of the Gion Kyoka experience is the traditional breakfast at their sister restaurant, a 5 min walk away. That soup is out of this world! So is the beef. Green tea and chocolate Japanese ice cream at Kinkaku-ji. Super over-rated. Like I said, Nishiki Market is a treat for street food. In addition to all sorts of grills – octopus, scallops, shrimp, beef and so on, make sure you try Taiyaki – fish shaped, but filled with red bean, sweet potato and for tourists like us, custard. Loved! Mr.Young Men is a great place in Nishiki Market to try Okonomiyaki (a Japanese Teppanyaki), a savoury pancake dish consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients cooked on a teppan. We had a combination of pork, squid and egg. Absolutely delicious. The place is run by three women, and though the service is a tad slow, they make up with the warmth! Asahi (the prime member of the beer triumvirate) , Makgeolli and Mitsuya Cider with some brilliant Udon beef. Such a great night that I forgot the name of the place. It is on Kiyamachi-dori Street, which runs parallel to Pontocho and is a far better place to dine in. Lunch at Yagura, another excellent no-nonsense place run by women. The kid who sat at the next table was intensely curious about us. Creme brûlée crepes at Sanjiya in Nishiki MarketMusashi Sushi has horse meat! It also has the standard stuff, and eel, and duck, and octopus, and that conveyor belt that magically makes you pick up dish after dish! Kamukura Ramen was a rather forced meal because we needed to get back for the Gion Corner show. Not a fan. That dark chocolate pastry from Fukunaga spoke to us. It spoke the truth!Kyoto Beer Lab. Don’t bother. A lovely dinner and sake tasting at Kyoto Kiyamachi Iroha Karuta
We really liked Kyoto, but you really don’t need to visit those many temples unless you’re into it or on a pilgrimage. Walk around, enjoy the place, and use the extra time to spend an additional day in our next destination – Osaka!
P.S. The blog celebrated 20 years of existence yesterday.
2 thoughts on “Kyoto”